Two Jacob lambs enjoying the sun
JACOB WOOL
A Handspinner's Delight

This article was originally published in The Weaver's Journal, Winter 1987. It was written because handspinners always asked me, "How do I work with a spotted fleece?".
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  • Jacob Breed Info

          One can easily understand why Jacob sheep are used as decorative lawn mowers on the large parklands surrounding the country estates and historical houses of Britain. Here in the United States these exceptionally attractive animals continue to grow in popularity with shepherds and handspinners.

          This beautiful, elegantly horned and spotted animal has wool that ranges from white to cream and beige through ginger, brown and black. Jacob sheep are small in stature (80 to 150 lbs), eat about one-third less then their modern cousins, and are intelligent and easily trained. The ewes are excellent mothers, usually twin after the first breeding and, because of their ancient heritage are very hardy. The lambs have a birth weight of 6 to 7 lbs and look like stuffed toys that any child would cherish.

          The wool from Jacobs is demi-lustre with a nice crimp suitable for weaving or knitting. The Jacob also allows for creative yarns from one fleece because it is the only pure bred sheep that carries two grades of wool. The white is finer and the black, brown or ginger spots are somewhat coarser. The Bradford Count range is approximately 44-56. (The Bradford Count is a system for measuring the relative fineness and coarseness of worsted yarn, developed in Bradford, England).

          Although the origins of these sheep is in question, their existence in the British Isles is well documented with the earliest reference to them dated January 13, 1756. The breed can be traced back unchanged to at least 1760. Where did Jacobs come from? One story is that they are descendants of the sheep that Jacob received from his father-in-law, Laben, as payment for being his shepherd. (new English Bible, Genesis 30-40). Another is that they came from the Middle East traveling westward across North Africa and came to Spain with the Moors. This theory grows from the fact that the modern Jacob bears close resemblance to the sheep one sees in the Middle East today. Another possibility is that Jacobs are descended from an extinct Hebridian Breed. They have some resemblance to the head and horns of the St. Kilda sheep of which there are few today.

          In modern times the Jacob surfaced in the British Isles. The Jacob Sheep Society Ltd. was founded in the late 1960's and this breed that was in danger of becoming extinct has grown in numbers in Britain today. Jacobs were exported to Canada and then eventually found their way to the United States.   Top of Page

    Working Jacob Wool

          I created the coat in the photo below from Jacob wool. Here is a close-up. Here is a Jacob Topper I wove, and a Two Piece Jumper. The little sheep trim has been executed in a modified rug technique called Sumac, which I developed for making this garment.
    Jacob wool coat      Many years ago a friend gave me a Jacob fleece from England that was a joy for me to spin. From that one fleece I spun a variety of yarns that, since they were spun in an undyed state, were beautifully textured with a soft, springy handle and a very distinctive appearance. After that experience I knew what kind of sheep I wished to have when I started my farm 22 years ago.

          As with any specialty wool, Jacob has limited use for the commercial market but has captured the fancy of individuals from the cottage industry of handspinners. There is nothing written, as far as I know, about working with Jacob wool. As a result of my experience, I would like to share my methods with fellow spinners.

          After the shearer has made his annual visit, the Jacob fleece is laid out like a pelt and the sorting process begins. The belly wool that is matted, and any head wool with chap or vegetable matter, is discarded. The black spots are removed, then the white areas are pulled, and the britch wool is separated. The britch wool is coarse hair fiber from the lower part of the back legs that is common to most sheep of primitive origin. What remains of the fleece are the areas that are less well-defined between the black spots and the white wool areas, a variegated fiber mixture of the black and white. After sorting, four distinct piles of wool remain. All this from a fleece that weighed from four to six pounds! One further note; the "hogget fleece" (the first shearing of a lamb) is very soft and great care must be taken when separating the colors. On a mature fleece (second shearing on) one can almost pull the black spots out cleanly and separately from the white wool. All piles of the sorted wool are given a good shaking to remove any second cuts from the shearing process. The wool is then put into lingerie bags. Then the wool is washed and dried in preparation for the spinning process.

          There are several ways to create interesting yarn with the black, white and variegated wool from this special sheep.

    1. Tease, card and spin a smooth single or two ply yarn.
    2. Make a smooth three ply yarn. It could be all one color or any combination of black, white or variegated. Often spinners neglect the three ply process but it gives an entirely unique effect that is suitable for many things; or,
    3. Design a novelty yarn: In designing a novelty yarn,
      • Introduce a slub or boucle effect. Try plying one black and one white single and alternate slubs of these two colors.
      • Tease the variegated fiber (without carding) and spin, letting the black, white or grey mixture fall where it may. Use as a single or ply.
      • Make one single of the variegated (teased only) and ply with a smooth-spun black or white single. By having one ply constant in color and diameter you will create an evenly uneven yarn that weaves and knits well.
      • Run the variegated wool through a carding machine a couple of times to even the tone for a grey, tweedy look.

          Like many spinners, I was discouraged in the beginning from using the coarse, wiry wool such as that which comes off the back legs of the Jacob (britch wool). The first year it was discarded, but the second year I took another look and decided it had great possibilities. It provides still another texture and could be used for accents in outer garments or added interest for woven home furnishings. To take advantage of it's qualities:

    1. Tease only and spin for a variegated black/white/grey) effect. If a bulky yarn is desired make it a two ply yarn;
    2. Use one ply of britch wool and ply with a smooth single of black or white;
    3. Over-spin the britch wool making it a fine single and ply with a lofty single of white, black or variegated;
    4. For a more homespun look, blend the britch wool with white or black fiber in the carding machine. Use as a single, two or three ply yarn.

          The yarn spun from the Jacob wool (excluding the coarse, hairy wool from the back legs) is wonderful for knitting because of it's springy quality when spun long draw. But for me, my greatest joy has been to use it to weave unusual garments by taking advantage of the natural colors and textures.

          I also use my Jacob wool as a stabilizing fiber to add when spinning my llama fiber. If one spins pure llama, you will note that the finished skein is 'cold to the touch'. This is your clue that your yarn will not retain it's shape when knitted or woven. The finished garment will also become very heavy. The perfect ratio is 1 ¼ oz. Jacob to 3 ½ oz. of llama. I find that this blend does not compromise the beauty and feel of the luxury fiber, but gives the support needed to make a credible and useful yarn to make garments that will stand the test of time.   Top of Page

    Raw Llama Fiber

          Because of my management practices all of my fiber is very strong, clean and ready for carding and spinning. All is shorn fiber. Some has guard hair, but I pull out most of it before bagging. There are assorted colors, ranging from pure white to black, with many earth-toned hues in-between.

           First shearing of a llama at about 12 to 15 months is $4.00 per ounce. 2nd shearing on is $3.00 per ounce.

           Please indicate number of ounces you wish to purchase and stipulate your color preference. I will email you back to let you know if I have your preferences on hand, or when I'll have it available.   Top of Page

    Custom Carded Llama Fiber (ready to spin)

          Having explored llama fiber in depth for many years, my belief is that like most luxury fibers llama when spun pure make a very unstable yarn. It has great beauty and luster, but lacks memory. I always blend 25% washed sheep wool in the carding process. Adding this amount of sheep wool give the finished yarn the support it needs but does not compromise the look, feel and beauty of the llama fiber. I also hand tease the washed sheep wool that is used for blending since I wish to retain the quality of that fiber before drum carding.

      PRICE LIST:
    • 75% Llama 25% sheep wool blend from my animals - $5.50 per ounce
      Note: You get about 100 to 125 yards of singles if you spin it the way it is happy spinning.
    • Using your llama fiber - $3.50 per ounce plus the cost of the sheep wool used in blending.
      Note: I will only work with clean llama wool: no mats, chap, stickers or weeds.

    Custom Spun Chiengora (Dog Hair Spun to Order)

          Chiengora (pronounced she-an-gora) is the name people are using for dog hair. Chien is French for dog and gora is from angora, the fiber the hair most closely resembles. Dog hair is now considered a luxury fiber along with mohair and cashmere (goat), and angora (rabbit).

           I always blend dog hair with some sheep wool. My experience has been that spinning dog hair alone requires "over spinning" to make it hang together. And even that is not satisfactory. The small amount of sheep wool that is added acts as a binder to hold the dog hair in place. This carded blend drafts easily in the spinning process and makes a nice, strong, soft yarn without over spinning.

           I never wash dog hair before spinning. I will not process dog hair that has been locked up in a plastic bag since the dog odor becomes very pungent to say the least. Store it in a paper sack and leave it open to the air so it can breathe.

           I cannot process clipped dog hair (such as poodle) that is less than 3 inches long. Shedded brushings are different, and in most cases can be spun.

           If you are interested in having me spin your dog hair you will need to contact me by email. Then I'll have you send me a small sample of the hair you would like spun. Only then can I can quote you a price.    Top of Page

    CUSTOM SPINNING (for the discriminating fiber artist)

          I will spin any of the your sheep wool or luxury fiber that you wish to have custom spun. Please specify what you would like as a finished yarn and it's purpose. It can be a 2 ply or 3 ply depending upon it's intended use. Some novelty designer yarns. All finished yarn has been processed correctly and is ready for knitting or weaving.
    • 100 yard skeins of 2 ply - $35.00
    • 100 yard skeins of 3 ply - $40.00
    • These prices do NOT include the cost of the fibers used.

          If you think my price is too high just take a trip to any yarn shop. You will be surprised to see what you are paying per yard for quality, *commercially* processed fiber made into yarn.

          If you have fiber you wish me to spin for you, please email me with all the particulars about the fiber to be used, and what you wish in a finished yarn. I'll quote you a price by return email.

          Email or call me for your fiber/wool needs. If you are in this area and would like to come for a visit, the llamas and I always enjoy company. Just call for directions. We're located about 20 minutes east of Sacramento, CA off highway 80.

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    Marian's Llamas

    Marian Thormahlen
    Email marianllama@mindspring.com
    Phone 916-645-0298
    Lincoln, California

    www.mindspring.com/~marianllama/wool.html


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