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LuAnn had never been to New York City before.
But I grew up in New Jersey, so I've been to NYC maybe as many as 4 or 5 times.
The decision was a bit last minute - 2 weeks in advance - because LuAnn
signed up for classes at Durham Tech that start on Aug 19. Also, I was sort
of in between projects at work.
I tried to contact my friend Rehan, who lives in Manhattan. But he seems to
have disappeared again. Yo, Rehan, if you're reading this, send your
friends your new e-mail address!
We bought an Apple iBook the weekend before, for various reasons: LuAnn's
hard drive crash, to play with Mac OSX, to be able to do Google searches while
watching TV, and also because North Carolina had a Tax-Free Weekend the
weekend before our trip. But it was also great to be able to take our
little Apple to the Big Apple.
But the Apple was a lemon. The battery wouldn't charge. On the Thursday before
the trip, the Apple store in Durham told us they could order a battery, and
it could be here by Monday or Tuesday. We got the address of the Apple store
in SoHo instead.
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Saturday:
Our view from the Quality Hotel on 94th & Broadway in the Upper West Side,
looking south. That's Broadway. You can see our subway stop at the bottom of
the picture, and my left thumb to the left.
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First stop: the Apple store. It is labeled "Station A"; you
wouldn't know it from the street but for a small metal cut-out Apple logo hung
over the sidewalk. Inside, it's surprisingly large. Two stories. So, we took
a seat at the Genius Bar upstairs under the picture of Feynman, and
waited. And waited. Great way to spend vacation time, huh? They ordered a
battery for us. It would be in by Tuesday at the latest. They would give us
a call. Okay. To be continued.
Meanwhile, my watch went blank. At first, I thought it was another battery
problem, but when the battery goes dead, the watch gradually fades and slows
down. Instead, it went blank, came back, showed the correct time, or 7:77:77,
whichever it felt like. Well, that's what I get for cleaning out the crud from
a watch I've worn on my wrist almost every day for 17 years. The crud must've
been holding it together. Over the course of the week, however, the watch
improved. I think the New York city crud must have gotten into it.
Now that the vacation is over, the watch is running fine. I will never
clean it again!
The computer, the watch... this was foreshadowing.
After the Apple Store, we went to Times Square. Everything is in neon,
including the Police Department, and the subway signs. We were dazed,
but that could be partially attributed to all the traveling. It's like
being in Las Vegas, except we've never been to Las Vegas, so we don't
really know that. Plus, there's a Hershey's store. Mmmm, chocolate.
But just American chocolate.
Back at the hotel, we discovered that we had a wireless
internet connection simply called "linksys". We still don't know
who provided it.
It could have been the hotel. Or a local restaurant (there were two
Starbucks nearby). Or it could have been coming from one of the
apartments across the street. If you have a wireless hub, learn how
to secure it... Ignorance of technology is no excuse. Not knowing where
it was coming from, of course, we were careful not to type our bank account
passwords or anything sensitive like that. It came in
handy; I highly recommend having Internet access on a trip to New York.
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Sunday:
We went to Yankees Stadium, but they were sold out. We didn't really have
a plan B. In hindsight, we didn't have nearly enough Plan B's.
So we returned to Times Square. We browsed Virgin Records, which is
by far the largest record store I've ever seen. Then we went to Toys 'R' Us,
the largest toy store I've ever seen. It has a 3-story ferris wheel in it. And
a huge Statue of Liberty made out of Legos -- I enjoyed that Statue of Liberty
about as much as the real thing. Then we rushed over to FAO Schwarz,
because my sister recommended it as a huge toy store, so we expected it to
be larger, but it was about the same size, just different.
More emphasis on Star Wars, for example, and less on Legos.
Naturally I liked the Toys 'R' Us better, but I wouldn't fault
anyone for having the opposite opinion.
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Outside of FAO Schwarz, there was a guy with an iguana on a leash.
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That night, we tried to go to a dance club, but there was nothing at that
address.
So that shot the evening.
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Monday:
On Monday morning, we tried to go to the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
It is open 6 out of 7 days a week, but Monday is not one of them.
So we went to the Guggenheim instead. Modern art, from Picasso to Pollack:
I'm convinced that some of the paintings are there just to encourage art
students.
After that we spent some time in Central Park.
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Tuesday:
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The World Trade Center Site. At the time of this writing, it is a big hole
in the ground. You can see underground infrastructure that they seem to
be working on. You can also see that it's 5 or 6 stories deep.
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We walked from the WTC site to Battery Park the same way I did a couple
years ago, when I attended a friend's wedding celebration.
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From Battery Park, we took a subway to Brooklyn, and walked across the
Brooklyn Bridge. Note to self: next time, stand in front of
the pole.
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Then we went to Shea Stadium. The Mets are not in as much demand as the
Yankees. Oddly enough, they won. LuAnn was rooting for the San Francisco
Giants. I wasn't rooting for anyone in particular.
Barry Bonds hit two home runs.
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Wednesday:
We tried to go to a Russian bookstore. It's gone. It was just there 10 years
ago, what happened? Oh, sure, a bad Russian economy, and then a bad American
economy, and you just close up shop? (sigh)
The iBook Battery, continued: We went to the Apple store again, and did
our time at the Genius Bar. After a long time spent waiting, annoyed at
spending vacation time for this, we finally
got our battery and popped it in. Then, just as the fellow who helped us
walked away, I flipped the iBook over to open it up and test it, and one
of the rubber feet caught on the edge of the counter, popped out, bounced
on the floor, and rolled under the "Employees Only" door! I couldn't believe
it. And nobody else saw it, not even LuAnn. That took a few minutes to
explain and fix.
That evening, we went to the Comedy Cellar. Our seats were perfect: front
row, but far enough to the side to not get picked on by the comedians.
The lineup was Dave Attell, Russ Meneve, Jeff Ross, Ben Bailey,
Robert Kelly, Dean Obeidallah, and Steve Byrnes,
but some really famous comedians sometimes show up unannounced.
In our case, Chris Rock showed up.
He was the worst one (in my opinion, not LuAnn's).
That was partly because some of his
references to pop culture went over my head, but mainly because he was
just trying out new material for the MTV Music Awards. We were his
guinea pigs for about an hour. The comedian right after Chris Rock
was the best: Ben Bailey.
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Thursday:
Most of the previous paragraph about the Comedy Cellar really belongs on
Thursday. We saw the late show, from 11pm to 2am. We got home at 3am.
And then I had insomnia.
So, we got off to a late start. The plan was to see the Metropolitan Museum
of Art. But we got out after 3pm, and had lunch first, and the museum closes
at 5:30pm on Thursdays, so we decided to put it off until Friday, when the
museum is supposed to be open until 9pm. Unfortunately, we didn't have a
good Plan B.
At about 4pm, we were sitting down on a bench in a small square outside
the Museum of Radio
and Television, looking at a map and deciding whether to do that, or tour
the NBC studios, or something else, when I began to notice that the number
of people was increasing. I also noticed that they didn't look like tourists.
They looked like business people. Then I overheard a woman say to another,
"The whole block is out."
Ah, so that was it. A power outage. But that probably meant we wouldn't
get much out of the Museum of Radio and Television or NBC studios.
We decided to go to the top of the Empire State Building instead.
So we walked half a block back to the subway station,
but it was pitch black inside. The Empire State Building was only about
10 blocks away anyway, so we decided to walk it.
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As we walked, we noticed that it seemed to be more than just a block.
People were pouring out onto the streets as far as the eye could see.
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By the time we got to the Empire State Building, it was pretty obvious it
would be closed. We had heard on some portable radios along the way that
this was definitely not a terrorist attack, but I began to think that on
the off chance that it really was, standing under the Empire State Building
might not be the brightest idea.
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So we walked to Times Square and took pictures of it not lit up.
(That black line around the building is one of the famous tickers.)
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Then we walked halfway back to the Empire State Building, to the Coliseum
bookstore across the street from the NY Public Library and Bryant Square,
because they apparenly had a generator, and therefore
A/C. After a couple of hours of browsing books and listening to the radio
on their sound system, it became apparent that the power might not come
back soon, and it may be quicker to walk 50+ blocks back to the hotel
than to wait in the line for the restroom.
It was getting dark, but we stood in line for our supper (hotdogs).
The street vendors were very busy that night.
Then we began our long trek back. It was mostly lit by car headlights. And we
were not the only ones. The sidewalks were full as we made our way back to
94th Street & Broadway.
The hotel was dark. People were lying around in the lobby. We decided to
climb the stairs. The staircase was manageable, because there were
windows. When we got to the 10th floor, however, we found it pitch dark. We
waited a few moments for our eyes to adjust, but as far as I could tell, there
were no photons in there. I remarked on the aptness of my T-shirt, Dixie
Caverns, but that I didn't realize I'd be spelunking that day. Finally, LuAnn
remembered that her watch lights up. With our eyes adjusted, it really lit up
the whole floor. We found our way to the room, and to our great relief, the
electronic door lock worked. It was 10pm. We went to bed immediately --
we were exhausted. We slept with the windows open.
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Friday:
At about 6am, the A/C kicked on, and we heard applause in the streets.
Thus we got an early start to our day. We had breakfast and immediately
walked (the subways still weren't running) to the Metropolitan Museum of
Art. But it was closed, due to the blackout. We tried to go to the
Museum of Natural History, but same deal. We sat on a bench for a while
to discuss Plan C.
We walked to Riverside Park, and then took an M5 bus down to Wall Street.
There we saw the famous bull statue, walked down Wall Street,
and then walked to the Staten Island Ferry. That's a good way to see the
Statue of Liberty for free.
On the way back to the hotel, we got off the bus and saw Grand Central
Station. It was big, but not very crowded -- many of the trains still weren't
running.
That night, we saw an improv act at Upright Citizens Brigade.
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Saturday:
We got smart and checked the Internet first. The Metropolitan Museum of Art
was closed again. This being the last day of our vacation, we didn't get to
see it. People seem to think it must have been exciting to have experienced
the "Blackout of 2003", but mostly it just sucked.
We took the subway back to Times Square. Power was restored, but some of
the fancier signs still weren't rebooted. We went to the TKTS booth and got
tickets for "Cabaret". Our decision to see "Cabaret" was largely due to the
fact that we went to TKTS before we went to an ATM. (Note: take loads of cash
to the TKTS booth. They don't take credit cards.)
After "Cabaret", we went to the Empire State Building again, but it was still
closed.
That night we went to CBGB. It was an all girl-band night. The tagline for
the night was "a night of chicks, sticks, and picks".
We got there just before Lady Unluck set up. They were good.
Good enough that we suffered through the next band and heard some of the
one after that.
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Sunday:
We packed, traveled, and unpacked. It takes all day when you have so many
delays at the airport. We waited so long in the plane on the ground that
they had to go back to refuel.
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We were a little worried about picking a 2-star hotel, but if you're going
to be out sightseeing, you really don't need a fancy place to be unconscious.
This hotel was fine. No complaints. Quality Hotel on Broadway. Close to
Strand Diner on 96th Street, which makes fine breakfast pancakes.