For the most part, original equipment handle bars of the European pattern were comfortably narrow and possessed only moderate rise. When properly rotated, this basic design encourages the rider to adopt a natural arm and wrist position, and by that I mean that while seated normally, one's wrists should be straight, thus allowing the palms to lie upon the grips. Adjusting the bar to eliminate wrist bend helps reduce a likely source of fatigue, especially while touring. Next, one's extended fingers should lie lightly upon the brake and clutch lever blades, and this hand motion should be done without angling up or down. The proper alignment can be achieved simply by slackening and rotating these two controls, swiveling them about the bar until the fault is corrected. Again, the best arrangement is generally found when the extended fingers form a natural extension of the the palm and forearm so that the tendons enjoy a straight line pull. The lever blades shall then lay slightly below the horizontal, ready to accept the outstretched fingers. Once satisfied, the owner should remember to tighten the blades and should always be ready to attend to any signs of slippage. This modification is much simpler to do than to describe, and the results permit maximized effort and finesse, while efficiently using one's strength in a beautifully modulated manner. The overall goal is the poised, yet relaxed riding stance so necessary for control.
Where your model permits alternative foot rest position and height, this flexibility should be utilized to permit a comfortable angle at the knees. Once this aspect has been attended to, only then should one adjust the shift and rear brake pedals to maximize instant availability to the toe when seated in the normal riding position. split seconds wasted hunting for that brake can cost dearly, while a missed shift due to clumsy footwork can blow an engine.
Many experienced riders prefer a combination horn and dip (low-hi beam) switch near the left thumb. If separates are used, then place the dip on the left and the horn on the right, close to the grips were one's thumbs can do the deed, thus freeing up the remainder of the hand for other work.
Twist grip throttles should have just a bit of free cable travel, be smooth as silk in operation, and perhaps possess just enough drag dialed-in to just prevent snap back when released during warm up or while fiddling with one's gloves.
Clutch, brake, and all cables should be well lubricated. Less obvious but just as crucial, lever pivot pins and cable end barrels also require lubrication, and this last detail--attending to cable end barrels-- is very important indeed. These cable barrels rotate as the levers swing and therefore require grease, or, strand by strand, the cables will fail. One broken strand will work up into the outer housing and jam normal movement, requiring immediate replacement.
Any machine thus custom tailored to the rider's build and requirements will repay the brief time required by enhancing greatly the sheer pleasure, the innate feel of being at one with the bike. Every ride will be more memorable and a safer experience. One for the lads . . .
