A Decade of Experiences In A Bavarian Village
By Donald P. Crivellone © 
Cover: Drawing from a book about Oberammergau's Passion Play held in the year 1900, artist unknown. Oberammergau's coat of arms: The villagers taking the pledge to hold the Passion Plays every ten years.
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DISCOVER A FAIRYTALE VILLAGE IN GERMANY This is a story of an American family's love affair with the quaint Bavarian village of Oberammergau, Germany. Oberammergau is located approximately 50 miles south of Munich, at the very foot of the magnificent Alps, and is best known for hosting the Passion Play every ten years. Donald P. Crivellone first became familiar with Oberammergau while he was in the army and stationed in Germany. Years later, the town would become his family's annual holiday destination. Through the eyes of this family, meet the people of Oberammergau. Learn about their customs and special events, their cuisine, and the incredible beauty of their valley and the surrounding mountains. Visit sites in the immediate vicinity of Oberammergau: King Ludwig's Schloss Neuschwanstein (which inspired Disney) and Schloss Linderhof (inspired by Louis XIV of France), the Ettal Monastery, Wies Kirche (Church of the Meadows), the town of Garmisch-Partenkirchen, and the Zugspitze, the tallest mountain in Germany. Through vivid descriptions, an endearing cast of characters, warm recollections, and not without a sense of humor, Mr. Crivellone invites the reader to share the joy of family and the adventure of travel. He conveys how the charm of this small village in Bavaria pulled the family back, year after year, and how the many townspeople of Oberammergau made them feel more at home and less like tourists. Filled with many interesting facts that the average tourist may not be aware of, the book is sure to delight the armchair traveler as well as the seasoned traveler. Not only does it make an excellent prologue to an upcoming trip to Bavaria; it also serves as an engaging memoir for those who have returned from their travels and wish to "revisit" the area again.Selected Photos Map of Bavaria Donald P. Crivellone's Home Page and E-Mail
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OBERAMMERGAU
A Decade of Experiences In A Bavarian Village
SAMPLE CHAPTER
OUR FIRST CHRISTMAS 1980 Getting to Oberammergau for our first Christmas visit in 1980 was not easy. As it turned out, I never made it to Harvard. I was given a major promotion one week before I was scheduled to leave, and did not think it wise to be away from the office for three months at that time. Robin and I discussed our proposed Christmas trip and concluded that the trip to Europe was still on.
New York We originally had reservations on Pan American Airlines from Boston. Rather than change airlines we stuck with Pan American, but they did not have a direct flight from Los Angeles to Germany, so we had to stop over in New York. In fact, the stop over was overnight, which was okay with us because we wanted to visit the Plaza Hotel. One of the girls' favorite books at the time was Eloise at the Plaza, the story of a precocious little girl who lived full time at the Plaza. Robin and I decided that rather than stay at an airport hotel at the John F. Kennedy Airport and visit the city for the evening, we would stay at the Plaza to absorb the full ambiance of the hotel and that area of the city. According to the book, the hotel had a portrait of "Eloise" hanging in the lobby. Much to our surprise the portrait actually did hang in the lobby, and our girls were naturally thrilled. The Plaza Hotel is an excellent place to stay in New York. The lobby is extremely ornate and comfortable. The rooms we booked had fireplaces, overlooked Central Park, and because of the location (next to Central Park and just off 5th Avenue), we found it very convenient to walk to several of the tourist sights.
We took a stroll along Fifth Avenue to look at the Christmas - decorated windows, see the ice skaters at Rockefeller Center with its giant Christmas tree, visit St. Patrick's Cathedral and ride to the top of the Empire State Building. The wind that blew down Fifth Avenue was so cold that Robin, who had always lived in Southern California, was wondering why we would want to go to Germany in the winter if this was the sort of weather we were going to encounter.
At breakfast the next morning, we all enjoyed two pieces of french toast (for $13.00 per person), and at that point I was asking myself why we chose to spend $500.00 for a quick night in New York City, just to see a portrait of Eloise.
Oberammergau The discomfort of the cold and the cost of New York City faded quickly as soon as we landed in München, rented our car, and started driving towards Oberammergau. It was comfortably cold, but not bitter cold, and the snow blanketing the houses and trees gave us a winter wonderland feeling of Christmas. All this snow was new to Robin and the girls - and to add to the experience this was Tina's and Kimi's first visit to Europe.
München is situated in an area of low rolling hills, but as we drove southward we could see in the crystal clear air the full glory of the Alps, which border that entire area of Germany only 80 kilometers away. The exit for Oberammergau, at Oberau came quickly since the road was dry and there was no speed limit on the autobahn.
As we drove up the steep, curving mountain road that led to Oberammergau the scenery and views were spectacular. We drove through Ettal, where the huge 200 - foot dome of the monastery completely dominates this small cozy village.
We pointed out the Kofel to the girls as we approached Oberammergau. The beauty of Oberammergau, covered with snow, stunned all of us, and we felt as if we were driving into a picture post card.
Hotel Alois Lang As we drove up to the Alois Lang hotel, the huge evergreen tree growing near the entrance was covered with Christmas lights. More lights were hung to form stars on the hotel, which added to the enchantment. The greeting by the hotel staff was so warm and sincere we immediately felt at home. The interior of the hotel was decorated for Christmas throughout with "real" evergreens, a Christmas tree and candles. We kept pinching ourselves to make sure that we were not dreaming. Richard, the do - it - all employee, took care of our luggage, making our arrival carefree, and after we were settled in our rooms, Robin and I broke open the complimentary champagne, while the girls munched on Christmas cookies, a sample of many little treats that awaited us. We all agreed that we had made the right choice by choosing the Alois Lang as our home for the next two weeks.
That evening for dinner we were escorted to table three, the middle table along the windows facing out to the garden in front of the hotel. We quickly discovered that we had a special placement at that table.
The Barking family, from Dinslaken near Düsseldorf, at table one (to our left) had been coming to the hotel each Christmas since 1952. Two of their children, Hans and Monica (now in their thirties), were with them. Hans and Monica knew of no other place for their Christmas holidays.
At table two (also to our left) were the Hommerichs, also from Düsseldorf, and their daughter Elke; they had been coming to the hotel for over ten years.
The Millers, at table four, had been coming for 25 years. We never had an opportunity to get to know this couple as they purchased a second home in Switzerland and started spending their Christmases there.
All the "regular" families stayed in the same rooms, were assigned the same tables, and sat at the same places for all those years. We became a part of this tradition for four Christmas seasons, until we moved into an apartment we bought five houses away from the hotel.
The main dining room of the hotel is very special. It has an intimate feeling, yet holds about 20 tables. The ceiling is wood with carved beams, oriental carpets adorn the floors, and oil paintings hang on the walls. Antique woodcarvings and local crafts are everywhere. The abundant drapes on the windows are pale blue and trimmed in gold; the starched table cloths were immaculate white, and the place settings were perfect in every way. The waiters from several countries were multilingual and looked handsome in their tuxedos.
The meal that was served that first evening was spectacular.
Pensions-Menü
Geräuchertes Forellenfillet auf Waldorfsalat mit Preiselbeersahn (Smoked Trout on Waldorf Salad with Cranberry Whipped Cream)Toast und Butter (Toast and Butter)Cremesuppe "Dubarry" (Cauliflower Cream Soup)Schweinerrückensteak nach Gutsherren Art (Pork Steak, Farmer's Style)Princessbohnen (Long String Beans)Röstkartoffeln (Roast Potato's)Salat der Saison (Salad of the Season)Mandarineneisbecher (Mandarin Orange Ice Cream in a Cup)Käseteller (Cheese Plate)Our dinner was served in the old - world style. The main course was served from a large platter that always held enough for seconds and the platter was placed on a hot plate to keep the seconds warm. Elegance is the only description that would fit the service and gourmet is the only word to describe the quality of the food. Every meal for the next two weeks was served just as elegantly and was as perfect as the first.
That night we slept soundly, aided by the long flight from New York, the excitement of our arrival, and the fantastic dinner.
The next morning we all woke up with the sunrise and, to our surprise, that night it had snowed, which added a layer of fresh snow on a previously beautiful coat of snow. Robin, who had never seen it snow blurted out "I didn't even hear it snow." We all laughed because only a native southern Californian would think snow made noise as it drifted to the ground. "I didn't even hear it snow" has become a family joke.
Breakfast at the hotel during the Christmas holidays was also special. The breakfast room was a large, bright paneled room with huge windows that gave the guests a lovely view of the garden, the snow and the surrounding mountains, including the Kofel. Crisp lace curtains lined the windows and beautiful lush plants lined the marble window stills. I learned that plants really like steam heat, which is the principal method of heating in Bavaria.
Breakfast was buffet style with a variety of foods, which the Germans call a "rich" breakfast, I call it "sumptuous." The choices included three kinds of juices, dry cereals such as corn flakes, creamy milk, yogurt, a variety of semmeln (rolls) fresh from the bakery each morning (excepts Sundays), jams, honey, unsalted butter, soft boiled eggs, a basket of fresh fruit, cold cuts, cheeses, sausages, and the ever - present holiday Stollen cake.
Coffee, tea or chocolate was served in elegant silver pots by the hotel staff. We always ordered hot milk to dilute the strong coffee while keeping the coffee hot.
Grüss Gott After breakfast, wearing our ski jackets, moon boots, hats, scarves, "long johns" and gloves we walked several blocks into the heart of the village. What a change from California! As we strolled into our first establishment, Bierling Drogerie, which was literally in the center of the village, we were greeted with "Grüss Gott" (literally Salutation God) the traditional Bavarian greeting given by the shopkeepers when you enter their shops. We quickly learned to respond with a warm "Grüss Gott" and since it was given sincerely, to prize this greeting. Since there were three ladies in our family Bierling was visited often because it had a good supply of cosmetics, perfumes and other goodies which the girls prized. The owner of Bierling, Zeno Bierling, with his handsome moustache, always seemed to be in the shop to assure that customers were given quality service. His commute to work was easy as he lived above the store.
Woodcarving One of the places that we visited immediately, as we were told it closed for Christmas, was the woodcarving school on Ludwig Lang Strasse. Woodcarving, (Holzschnitzerei), is a specialty of Oberammergau. Woodcarvings from Oberammergau have been and are carried all over the world by visitors particularly those attending the Passion Play, which made the woodcarvers of Oberammergau famous. Many of the young men in the village attend the woodcarving school and eventually set up studios in their homes, join other wood-carvers in their many shops around the village, or open shops of their own.
There are approximately 55 official woodcarvers who belong to the Woodcarvers Association of Oberammergau. Each member has a stamp with his or her number that is affixed to each "original" hand - carved woodcarving. As one walks through the residential areas of the village you will see the woodcarvers working in their studios.
There are many machine - carved items in the shops throughout the village, but these are principally carved in northern Italy. These machine carved items are reasonably priced and excellent, but they are not the fine - quality woodcarvings from the Oberammergau woodcarvers.
The early woodcarvings were principally cribs (nativity scenes) and crucifixes. Other religious carvings were of the Madonna, Saints and the Last Supper. In addition, the woodcarvers created other items such as jumping jacks, soldiers, doll heads, simple toys and practical household items.
Purchasing one of the exquisite Oberammergau hand - carved pieces is an "investment decision," but one that you will never regret. We purchased a St. Nicholas woodcarving, in honor of our Christmas stay.
Coffee and Cake Walking in the crisp mountain air gave us an appetite. We did not have lunch, not after the rich breakfast, but we certainly knew we would not make it to dinner without eating something. Tina and Kimi tried a treat that they had never experienced before, sucking an icicle. They loved the experience, but it didn't do much for their appetites, so we stopped at the Markmiller Cafe on Dorfplatz, the village center. Luckily, we stumbled into what we were to learn is a traditional afternoon treat - coffee and cake. One of the employees explained to us that you pick your cake at the front counter (not an easy decision due to the mouth - watering variety), and the employee at the counter gives you a slip of paper with the cake number. Then you seat yourself in the dining area. The waitress takes your beverage order and your cake numbers. She immediately retrieves your cakes as well as the beverages. We learned this system quickly and to be sure we would not forget it we practiced it almost every afternoon throughout our trips through the Alps!
München The hotel had two pretty Christmas trees, one in the main dining room and the other in the breakfast room. Despite these trees, we still felt the need to have our own family Christmas trees in our rooms. The Blumen Haus (flower shop) offered a wonderful selection of small trees approximately three feet high, decoratedwith bows and real candles, which were perfect for our rooms. We purchased two, one for each room, and we loaded the trees and the girls on the sleds the hotel has on hand for guests, and pulled them back to the hotel.
We needed ornaments for our trees, and our planned trip to the Christkindlmarkt (Christ Child's market) in München's Marienplatz would fit that need.
Christkindlmaerkte are common in Bavaria; the oldest and perhaps the most traditional is in Nürnberg. The origin of the Christkindlmarkt in Nürnberg varies somewhere between legend and history, for they have been in existence since the 1600's. It is said that the Christ Child was drawn down from heaven by the glittering lights, colors, sounds and smell of the spices from the Lebkuchen (ginger bread) to do his Christmas shopping. From what we experienced we can truly understand how this legend got started!
Our waiter at the hotel, Vlado, gave us directions to a parking structure near the Christkindlmarkt and we arrived there with no problems, which is not easy in München during the holidays. (In fact, it is not easy at any time.)
We made our way to the Marienplatz, which is a pedestrian mall, and our eyes were wide with amazement. Robin and I had been in this very square when we previously visited München in 1971, but this overwhelmed us. All your senses are affected, sight, smell, sound and eventually touch and taste. Stands were filled with multi - colored ornaments (elaborate expensive glass to simple straw), beautiful angels that crown Christmas trees, nativity sets, prune people with walnut heads, toys and dolls, gloves and scarves, Nussknacker (Nutcrackers), and incense burners in a variety of presentations (such as gardeners, hunters, doctors, Santas and bakers) as well as plenty of things to eat. The food was staggering: gingerbread, sausages, pretzels, candy, stollen cakes, marzipan, cotton candy, hot roasted mandeln (burnt sugar almonds), and Tina's favorite, Schokoladen Küsse, which is a cookie covered with marshmallow and dipped in Chocolate. In Germany you are never far from drinks: Glühwein, Schnaps, wine, Bier and soft drinks, were offered for sale throughout the Christkindlmarkt.
We tried the cotton candy, the nuts, some sausage mit brot und Senf (bread and mustard), and some of us drank sodas while others drank Bier, but the highlight in the food department was when we came upon Krems Waffeln (a stand that sold only waffles). Fresh waffles, dipped in chocolate and topped with schlagsahne... real whipped cream. This stand became a "must" for us each Christmas that we visited München.
A 50 foot Christmas Tree stands in front of the Rathaus (city hall). If you are in the Marienplatz when the Glockenspiel strikes 11:00 a.m. or 5:00 p.m. you will be treated to several colorful mechanical treats on the facade of the Rathaus. The upper platform re-creates the two - week long feast held in 1568 to celebrate the wedding of the Duke Wilhelm V and Renata of Lorraine. The "royal couple" are entertained by folk dancers and jousting knights. On the lower level, Coopers (barrel makers) re-enact a dance first performed during the plague of 1515 to cheer the spirits of their fellow citizens.
We purchased small red ornaments with a red velvet - like surface that were shaped in the form of bells, angels, horns, shoes, stars, boxes, musical instruments, birds and animals. The small Christmas trees in our rooms would not lack for ornaments. These red ornaments have become part of our Christmas tradition. They have crossed the Atlantic at least eight times and it just wouldn't be Christmas for our family without them.
Gift Shopping We did not bring Christmas presents with us to Germany, so we needed to shop for our family of four in the village. Our technique was simple: I took Tina through the village shopping for Robin and Kimi, while Robin took Kimi andsimultaneously shopped for Tina and me. We then met back at our hotel, deposited our gifts and then we switched: Kimi went with me, Tina went with Robin, and we reversed the process of purchasing. This way we were able to buy presents for everyone and keep them secret. The care the merchants employed wrapping each and every present regardless of cost impressed us. I have traveled extensively and have experienced this attention to wrapping presents in some other parts of the world, but Bavaria and Oberammergau is clearly one of the very best.
Our family was never proficient in opening soft boiled eggs and we watched enviously as the Germans deftly cracked opened the top of a soft boiled egg with a butter knife. Our attempts always massacred the eggs. While shopping one day Robin spied an Eikoepfer (Egg Cutter), a scissor - like instrument with a round opening that fit over the egg, and, with a gentle squeeze, cleanly cut off the top of the egg. She gave it to me for Christmas and it has been one of the family's favorite "tools" ever since. We carry it with us on all of our trips, one never knows when one will have soft boiled eggs!
We learned early on that one must be careful shopping because stores in Oberammergau and the surrounding area close at 1:00 p.m. on Saturdays and are closed on Sundays. They close at 1:00 p.m. Christmas Eve and are closed the day after Christmas. This pattern applies to other major holidays, as well.
Smurfs Robin and I have a strict rule when traveling: Always have your own car. This insures freedom to come and go as you please, stop when you want to, and stay as long as you want.
We found ourselves always driving from one town to another exploring the stores, churches and historical sights. Tina and Kimi did not always enjoy this nomadic practice, but we found a way to keep them looking forward to each village and town we wanted to visit. The game was simple. When we arrived at our destinations, Tina and Kimi were given permission to find the first toy shop and purchase two Smurfs each. The blue, gnome - like creatures were made in numerous versions depicting sports, professions and everyday tasks; literally hundreds of different smurfs existed.
Smurfs originated in the Netherlands as give aways at gas stations. In the early 1980's smurfs were just being introduced in America, but in Germany they were already very popular. The variety of smurfs provided us with enough bribes to happily visit a multitude of villages and towns. The shopkeepers normally kept them in baskets, and the girls would ravage the basket looking for smurfs they did not have. After selecting their quota of two each, they were content to walk through the new village playing with their smurfs while Robin and I enjoyed the scenery and history.
Anneliese Lang It was a pleasure to watch the staff perform their duties at the hotel, whether it was the chambermaids, the staff at front desk, the kitchen staff or the waiters. The staff saw to it that the guests were treated as close to royalty as possible.
The person behind this efficient staff was Frau Anneliese Lang, the wife of the owner, Herr Fritz Lang. She demanded perfection in the table settings, the quality and presentation of food, and the general ambience of the hotel. It was a pleasure to watch her, for she indeed qualified as the proverbial "ball of fire."
The cost of the hotel was extremely reasonable. Our first Christmas - 1980 - the price for a room, with bath, rich breakfast and a gourmet dinner was only DM 100 per person per day. At the exchange rate of $.40 per Deutsche Mark that was only $40.00.
Television Room Despite the fact that our knowledge of German was almost non existent, during that first Christmas we joined other guests, predominately Germans, in the television room after dinner. The adults had their Bier, wine or coffee, the younger guests had soft drinks. The news, even in German, gave us some idea of what was going on around the world, but that was only a prelude to the real reason everybody gathered, which was to watch "Dallas" or "Der Denver Klan" (Dynasty). The Germans always pointed out with joy the Mercedes Benzes used in these shows.
The Surrounding Area This first trip to Oberammergau was to be one of becoming oriented to the region. We visited Garmisch, and while walking up and down Bahnhofstrasse Tina and Kimi jumped for joy when they spied a touch of home "McDonalds." I groaned at the thought of McDonalds on my Christmas vacation until I discovered that they served Bier.
After a "grosse Mac mit pomme frits" and Bier for me, we wandered up to the Riessersee which is a five minute drive from Garmisch. We had dessert in the Cafe - Restaurant Riessersee at the end of the lake, and after dessert we walked around the lake. We were on one of the thousands of walking trails in Bavaria, and no trail is far from food and Bier. There may be a more beautiful view of the Zugspitze, the Alpspitze, and the Alps than the view from the Riessersee, but we have never found it.
We visited Schloss Linderhof just twelve kilometers from Oberammergau in the neighboring Graswang Valley, where King Ludwig built the castle between 1869 and 1879. This castle is very small and intimate, much like a private apartment. Architecturally it is a blend of Italian Renaissance and Baroque with an interior that may, on a much smaller scale even surpass that of Versailles, (King Ludwig was a great admirer of Louis XIV of France). The grounds are magnificent, and contain a grotto and a moorish pavilion.
King Ludwig built the Grotto with a lake. When he listened to the music of his favorite composer, Richard Wagner, he would do so sitting in an elaborate golden "swan" boat; the Grotto was permeated by the spirit of Wagner's Tannhaeuser.
The King also used the moorish pavilion for his fantasies. He would dress up as a potentate and smoke a water pipe while sitting on a "peacock" throne.
There are many other fascinating aspects to Linderhof, such as his bedroom, but one of the unusual items is the dining room table, located on the second floor as were all the living quarters. It is small table, the maximum seating would be two, but in almost all cases the King would dine alone. The entire table was lowered to the kitchen, the servants set the table - including the food - and then the table was raised back up to the dining room. The King obviously liked his privacy.
The pool in front of Linderhof with its group of gilded figures and jet of water that rises 105 feet is spectacular. Unfortunately the water jet is only turned on every hour, but worth the wait. Wandering through the 75 acres of gardens is a pleasant way to past the time while you wait.
The Wies Kirche (Church of the Meadows), just 25 kilometers north of Oberammergau, is the masterpiece of Dominikus Zimmerman. Zimmerman built the church between 1746 and 1754, to replace a small rural chapel that held the Flagellated Saviour, a sculpture composed of fragments of wooden Saints' figures. At one point in a complicated history tears could be reportedly observed on the face of the Flagellated Saviour, "the miracle of the Wies."
The exterior is downright simple, and masks from the visitor an interior that can only be explained as dazzling. The interior is pristine white with frescos covering the ceiling depicting the salvation of the world through Christ. The remainder of the interior is full of statues, cherubs, angels and gold accents that complement the altar of multi - colored marble columns. There are many churches in Bavaria that are dazzling, including the church in Ottobeuren, but, in my opinion, this very small church is the most beautiful church in the world. To me it is a combination of the location, the simple exterior, its size and the interior.
The Benedictine Monastery of Ettal, four kilometers from Oberammergau, was founded in 1330 by Emperor Ludwig and dominates the village of Ettal.
King Ludwig the Bavarian in 1327 went to Rome to secure for himself the Imperial Crown and the title of the Holy Roman Emperor. While in Rome his fortunes reversed and a monk he met told him if he would agree to build a monastery to the glory of God and Our Lady the monk would arrange to assist him financially. The Emperor agreed, and was given a statue of the Blessed Virgin. When the Emperor reached the Ammer Valley, in 1330, his horse knelt down three times after the climbing the steep mountain road and refused to go further. The Emperor took this as a sign that the monastery was to be built on that spot and so it was. The monastery originally was Gothic, but was changed to Baroque after a fire in 1744. Today the Ettal Monastery is a huge complex that includes: the Cathedral of Our Lady of Ettal (the original Cararra marble statue can be seen); a high school for boys and girls, and a brewery - the Klosterbrauerei.
The monastery of Ettal was the highest authority in the Ammergau for several hundred years after its founding. The monasteries of Steingaden and Rottenbuch, also in the Ammergau were under the authority of Ettal.
Ettal is situated between two mountain ranges, receives limited direct sunlight in the winter and one can almost always count on snow in this village.
St. Nicholas December sixth is the tradition time that St. Nicholas makes his rounds to the homes of children in Bavaria. He carries a book that contains the activities of the children during the past year, which he reads to them. (I suspect that the parents have something to do with the information St. Nicholas has in his book.) Accompanying St. Nicholas on his rounds is Krampus, with his dirty gray beard, ragged brown clothes, bells hanging from his belt, and his "switch" for those children who had not been good the past year. Fortunately most children have been good so St. Nicholas leaves small gifts with the youngsters, such as nuts, apples, oranges and cookies. The big day for Bavarian children is Christmas Eve when they receive their more important gifts from the Christ Child.
One evening during our visit the local sports club was celebrating Christmas with their families in the breakfast room of our hotel and they were expecting a visit from St. Nicholas. As Tina and Kimi were the only young children staying in the hotel at the time Frau Lang asked the club if they could participate. The club was more than happy to have Tina and Kimi join in the fun. St. Nicholas arrived, resplendent with white beard and hair, wearing a long red cassock trimmed in gold. A mitered hat and a walking staff completed his costume. He carried his famous book with the children's activities during the past year, which he read to each child. St. Nicholas read to Tina and Kimi from his book, to which we had contributed a few items. St. Nicholas had gifts for all the children; Krampus observed the gift giving, but did not get to use his switch.
It was another wonderful memory made possible by Frau Lang, designed to make us feel at home; it was a special treat that will never be forgotten.
Christmas Eve and Christmas Day Herr Lang's revised dress code for the hotel's dining room continued. Guests could basically wear what they liked, but because of the overall aura of the holiday season, they dressed casually, but appropriately, for dinner. For instance, since I am the most casual member of our family, I usually wore long - sleeved turtleneck shirts or a sweater with slacks; Robin, Tina and Kimi always looked much dressier than I did.
Herr Lang wore his ever - present kniebundhose with a shirt and tie, except for the three occasions a year when he wore a tuxedo. (Christmas Eve, Christmas Day and New Years Eve). Prior to these special days he or the waiters would whisper to the guests that coats and ties would be appropriate.
These three meals were indeed worth dressing up for. The hotel and staff went all out. The tables were decorated with Christmas candles, Christmas cookies, nuts, and beautiful Christmas napkins.The menus were extra special, with a colored photograph of a local work of art - such as a hand - carved nativity set pasted on the front. The candles at the hotel were always pink and we thought the color might have had a connection with the Christmas season - but learned that pink was simply Frau Lang's favorite color.
The Christmas Eve's dinner menu, with guitar and zither background music, consisted of the following:
Menü am Heiligen Abend (Christmas Eve Menu)Melonenschiffchen, Parma Schinken, Pariser' Brot (Melon Wedges (boats) with Parma Ham and French Bread)Chinesische Schwalbennestersuppe (Chinese Bird's Nest Soup)Forellenfilet in Safransauce (Trout Filet in Safran Sauce)Wilder Reis aus Canada (Canadian Wild Rice)Grenadin vom Kalbsrücken (Veal Baked with a Covering of Bread Crumbs)Broccoli Bouquet (Broccoli)Herzogin Kartoffeln (Browned Swirls of Mashed Potatos)Frische Feigen in Rumschaumcreme (Fresh Figs in Rum Sauce)Hausgemachtes Weihnachtsgebäck (Homemade Christmas Cookies)This was followed the next day by the Christmas menu:
Weihnachts-Menü(Christmas Day Menu)Strassburger Toast (Toast with Toppings of Eggs, Cavair, Lox)Cremesuppe Anges Sorel oder Frische Kiwi (Fish Cream Soup or Fresh Kiwi)Gebratene Weihnachtsgans mit gefülltem Bratapfel (Roast Goose with Baked Stuffed Apples)Burgunderblaukraut (Red Cabbage)Kartoffelknödel (Potato Dumpling)Ananas Surprise (Pineapple Surprise)The guests greeted each other on these special evenings with "Fröhliche Weihnachten und ein Glückliches Neues Jahr" (Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year) or Glückliches Neues Jahr."
New Year's Eve Silvester (New Year's Eve) is very different from Christmas in the hearts of Bavarians. Christmas is a time to reflect on its purpose and a time to spend with family. A quiet time. New Year's Eve, on the other hand, is a time to have fun and enjoy. And do the Germans love to enjoy themselves!
To assure ourselves that we would have good luck for the coming year we purchased marizpan pigs with pfennige (pennies) in their mouths, another charming German tradition.
Oberammergau has a unique tradition for New Year's Eve. In the early evening the majority of the villagers - adults and children of all ages - gather at the Passion Play Theater equipped with paper lanterns of every color and description, with real candles inside. They participate in The Great Star Procession. Led by a large brightly lit star with baby Jesus on it, and accompanied by a band, the locals parade around the village and sing in the New Year. Many of these songs for the Great Star Procession were composed by Rochus Dedler, who composed the music for the Passion Play. While we participated in the walk, with Smurf lanterns of course, we certainly could not sing the German songs.
No one is quite sure why the baby Jesus is on the star, but I suspect "the star" and "baby Jesus" are inseparable. The star is carried by one man and another man has a battery pack that lights the star.
Small groups of boys and girls known as The Small Star Procession carry a smaller version of the star with baby Jesus, and visit individual homes and hotels and sing in the New Year.
Later, we commented to ourselves, only in special places could events like this take place without commercialism.
Upon our return to the hotel we dressed for dinner and dancing. Dancing included the famous "chicken dance" (flap your wings (arms) and wiggle), which proves the Germans are not as conservative as some believe. If dancing the "chicken dance" doesn't prove it then all one needs to do is observe the Germans during Fasching, the pre - Lent celebration, or at the Octoberfest in München.
We all made it to midnight when the skies glowed with rockets and fireworks that could be seen throughout the valley.
Coming Home Two weeks went by so fast that before we knew it we were back on Pan American flying to New York. The stopover this time in New York was intended to be a short one, but, as it turned out, it was once again an overnight stay due to an extremely bad snow - storm. We arrived at 8:00 p.m. and did not resume our trip to Los Angeles until 6:00 a.m. the next morning.
Before we left on our trip we invested $75.00 to join Pan American's Clipper Club in case we encountered any problems. It turned out to be a wise decision. Rather than waiting in the cold cement terminal where the shops closed early, we retreated to the comfortable members only Clipper Club, where drinks were served along with snacks. The Clipper Club attendant went home around 11:00 p.m., but agreed to let us stay if we promised to lock the doors when we left. It was a very unusual act that worked to our advantage. Robin, Tina and Kimi were able to fall asleep on the couches with Pan Am pillows and warm blankets, and they slept away the night, while I kept watch for the new departure time.
When arrived home in Los Angeles Robin's sister Barbara picked us up at the airport, drove us home, and we were so tired we went to bed immediately without unpacking. While we slept I am sure that we dreamed of our unusual trip.
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A short story that won Kimi a scholarship from the Palm Beach County School District.
Alpenglühn
By Kimberly A. Crivellone
That first evening, Angelika led me down to the river behind the house on Griesenerstrasse. Beyond the lush green foliage of the yard, the river flowed fast and frenzied, and some friendly kayakers greeted us with the familiar "Grüss Gott" greeting of Bavaria. The chill of the cool summer evening was a welcome relief from the humidity of Florida. "I want to show you the mountains," Ang said, excited as a schoolgirl. I was so tired, and I had seen the Alps before. I tried to dissuade her, but it seemed important to her. "Come on, Kimi," she said, "Tonight may be the only chance you'll get to see it." I gave in. Although I was exhausted, I couldn't resist Angelika's plea to follow her. So we walked across the front yard, over the train tracks, past the "Verboten" sign, up the steep mountain trail to a little hand-carved wooden bench on top of the mountain. I was breathless and cold as I sat down beside Ang and followed the direction of her gaze to the mountains looming tall and proud.
"Watch," she told me. "Watch the mountains." We sat and watched the mountains in the setting sun. It began to get darker and darker, and soon enough, I saw it. The mountains were brushed with a soft pink blush. The sky was muted, and the smooth rocky peaks were bathed in an ethereal glow, as if fairy dust had been sprinkled across the mountaintops. It was special. "It's called Alpenglühn. In English, Alpenglow." Angelika explained that the mountains only turned pink on certain days, depending on the position of the setting sun. "It's beautiful," I breathed. And at that moment, those mountains became the symbol of my journey. Although I had traveled to Germany several times with my family since I was a little girl, this traveling experience was different, because I was on my own. I would see another side of Germany, a side that my father had never been able to show me. This time I would see Germany from the perspective of a native. After the experience of the mountains, I began my journey anew, eager, open-minded, and recognizing the importance of seeing things in a new light. Learning from others, I had begun to fully grasp what real truth is.
I became more acquainted with nature than I ever had before during those three weeks. The fresh air of the Alps brought such a flush to my face, like the glow of the Alpenglühn. After our daily escapades, we always returned to the river at least once every day to splash our tired feet in the water. I had lived in large cities all my life, and never had those outdoor opportunities. Now my eyes were opened, and I could really see that to become human is to be "one with nature." All I had needed was Angelika's example to see that the beauty of nature, merged with culture, gives richness to life. I learned a similar lesson from a bum, whom we affectionately called Psycho Biker, who lived on a ten-speed bicycle in the town square of Garmisch. He was happy just the way he was, traveling on his bike and making friends. He made choices honestly and could live with them.
The individual experiences of others were valuable to my own adventure because I was open to their feelings and willing to listen to their vision of the world. Their influence and advice altered my view of the world because I came to recognize that everyone offers useful knowledge and that the job of being human is to gather as much of that knowledge as possible, in an effort to attain true insight.
I now know that one must see things from different perspectives to comprehend the truth. As the days grew closer to the end of our journey, I felt saddened to have to leave such a wonderful place. It was a place I thought I had known, but had only begun to understand. I often imagine the Alpenglühn - magical, sparkling crests exuding warmth and beckoning me to return, perhaps to see them in yet another light. I feel the warmth of the friendships I made, and the glow of knowledge that I brought back with me. I have new insights into everything, and I use those insights to explore my relationships, delve into my schoolwork, deal with my family, and understand myself. For awhile, I regretted never having taken a photograph of the Alpenglühn, but I've come to realize I don't need one. No photo could match the joy I experienced. The magic of my special journey will never lose its glow. Through Alpenglühn, I learned to see the world in a different light. My sight is no longer limited to a singular vision of the world; the vision of others has opened my eyes and allowed me to capture life in all its multi-faceted, shifting hues.
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Another story Kimi wrote was published in her Boca Raton high school literary magazine, "Pieces of Eight."
The Fairytale Village
By Kimberly A. CrivelloneSnow-tipped mountains surround the small village. Their dominating presence is not threatening or claustrophobic, but unknowingly, to the people of the village, they radiate a feeling of security and peacefulness. The landscapes are blanketed with fresh, untouched snow, crisp and ready for the first impatient child to trample through its immaculate smoothness. Skipping down a cobblestone road, crumbling after so many years of existence the child follows the path to the heart of town. Busy and friendly workers hurriedly serve the many shoppers who circulate the well known shops.
Everyone knows each other in this town; truly, they are like one large family. The church bells ring from a close distance, easily heard throughout the whole village. The church stands tall and proud among other houses; it walls enclosing gilded statues and heavenly painted ceilings portraying saints and angels. At night, when the moonlight reflects the wet streets of melting slushed snow and the church passes on an almost unearthly glow, one wonders whether there really can be such a place as this, a little Bavarian fairytale town where dreams seem to come true.
This is a Dobin Enterprises, Inc. Book OBERAMMERGAU
A Decade of Experiences in a Bavarian Village
Published in The United States of America
Dobin Enterprises, Inc.
235 Boca Ciega Court
Alpharetta, Georgia 30022 U.S.A.
Copyright 1993 by Donald P. Crivellone
No part of these sample chapters may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means electronically or mechanically, including photocopying, or by any information storage or retrieval system without permission of the publisher.
First printing 1993
Second printing 2000ISBN Number: 0-9643005-0-8
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