Subject: Back from Leipzig From: "Ian Dutton" To: NY Goth List Shea and I returned from the Wave-Gotik Treffen in Leipzig, Germany. It was...memorable. Firstly, I underestimated the scale of the event. When I first learned about the Treffen ("meeting" in German), it was from the Leipzig city newspaper, and it said that 6,000-8,000 people had attended. I had also heard that the size doubles from one year to the next - and thought that must have been an exaggeration. I was wrong. Imagine a large, formerly-East German city, overrun with 30,000 to 35,000 "darkies" (what our host friend calls our group). Everywhere you look, black black black. The restaurants, the cafes, the parks and streets. Even the strassenbahn (streetcars) and busses and every passing car. Vinyl, velvet, lace. Absolutely incredible. There were far more events and bands and "locations" than you could ever get to. A dark Renaissance festival along the medieval city walls (and inside the wall, where the old catacombs were). A pagan village, in the woods amidst centuries-old buildings. Ancient choral and instrumental music inside bombed out churches. Gothic literary and film festivals. Markets, vendors, and artists. And huge stages in the abandoned civic center complex (there is a new one in Leipzig - I guess they didn't want us there), the agricultural exhibition center, and around the city in parks and alongside monuments. Then there was the chaos. Even though transportation around the city was very good, it was not set up to shuttle thousands of out-all-night types around to the diverse locations. The temperatures were unusually hot for Germany, until the unusual-for-Germany hailstorm and heavy rains. And... The organizers of the event have a reputation for poor management. They never set out to create an event of this magnitude (350 bands in 4 days?), and there are always shortcomings and financial mismanagement. Quietly, the organization declared bankruptcy at the beginning of the festival, but everything was to go on as planned. Then, not-so-quietly, one of the primary organizers disappeared with 3 million DM ($1.5 million) - and the third day of the festival was plunged into total chaos...and the fourth day all but cancelled. Even with that, the festival was unbelievable. Bands like VNV Nation, Covenant, Apoptygma Berzerk, Das Ich, Death In June, Wolfsheim, And One. Some packed with 4,000 (plus?) people, some in front of the huge Volkerschlactdenkmal monument, and others in small tents. Death in June, for example, was relocated to a tiny tent in the woods, trees dripping from the earlier thunderstorms. Without electricity, they nonetheless played through a short set, knowing that the festival organizers weren't going to pay them for their appearance. Needless to say, these are just the beginning of the stories. You'll have to get Shea and I to tell you. And we'll put up some of the pictures online - but they only just start to get the feeling across. Who else was there? We met a number of other Americans...but no other New Yorkers. I know some were out there... Ian (darkpilot@mindspring.com)