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Italy, Cassino Remembered
May 15^th - 20^th 1999
Bill Hawkins extended diary of his visit to Cassino in May, 1999.

I first heard of Grand Island Films reading Cassino Veterans Association Newsletter, September 1997 that information was requested re-battles for Cassino.

I wrote a Mr. A. Winson stating I would be willing to offer certain information; from now on letters passed to and fro. Several questions were completed, result being he would invite me to participate in the making of a full length documentary film on the battles for Cassino

Filming commencement was anticipated to take place early in 1998 with a visit to Italy, May, 1998, but progress finally did not allow this to happen.

Eventually information reached me that Mr. Winson would be in London in April-early May, and told me that an interview would be appreciated. He travelled from London to Sheffield, a station quite close to my home, and approximately half an hour from London. As arranged I met him at the station and took him home where he questioned me on the time spent in the forces until my release. From now on the entire conversation dealt with my unit, 4^th Bn, the Essex Regt. which was part of the 4^th Indian Division which was heavily engaged in the area March 1944 in "Rocca Janula" i.e. "Castle Hill, and on"Hangman's Hill" where some of the company joined the "Gurkhas."

I showed him my copy of the History of the Essex Regt. which described the action very fully and in this he showed great interest. He was fortunate in obtaining a copy from a library in New York.

The interview was of great interest, finding "Alan" very relaxed and pleasant person to converse with, lasting approximately two hours after which he had reluctantly to leave for the return journey to London.

Fortunately, while in London he was able to hold a conversation with one of our officers who in 1944 was Company Commander of "C" Company--Major D.A. Beckett, now Major General D.A. Beckett CB DSO OBE.

It was anticipated that filming would take place in May, 1999, that would be the 55^th Anniversary of that hard fought battle

Arrangements regarding travel were made accordingly. Also I was given details of hotel facilities.

The day of departure was Saturday, May 15^th.

Sat. 15^th May - Flight departure time was 1400 hours from Heathrow, arrived in good time, then telephoned as instructed. Shortly an attendant met me. My luggage and passport formalities were attended to, transported to the plane. Once aboard on attendant inquired as to my final destination. I replied, "Cassino" to join a company who were in the process of making a full length documentary of the battles of Cassino which would incorporate interviewing personnel of many nationalities who participated, and I'd been given the opportunity of joining them.

The attendant wished me well and remarked it was a venture of a lifetime. To this I certainly agreed.

After a pleasant flight I arrived at Rome airport, once again transport, luggage and passport attended to, was wheel chaired through to the waiting area. No sooner had I entered when I heard my name shouted, and spotted a lady with a clipboard who immediately approached, shook my hand and given a warm welcome. This was Rebecca, Alan's wife; she had of course been looking for some one in a wheel chair, and who carried crutches.

She took me to her transport and in quick time we were away and on our way from Rome to Cassino, a distance of approx. 87 miles.

We made good time and chatted for most of the journey; the night was now approaching fast and we were soon parked in a small parking area for hotel personnel only, and with unloading completed, entered the Hotel Continental which was to be my home for the next few days.

Once inside was introduced to her husband Alan, John Williams (another participant) David Goldsmith, cameraman, Bradley Rapa, sound effects person, and finally the proprietor, Luigi Fulvio, the former were a grand team to work with.

The Hotel Continental stands in the Plaza-de-Gasperi opposite the town square where you find a Sherman tank, field gun, plaques in memory of Allied forces near the war memorial. Also can be seen a plaque presented by the Cassino Veterans Association in memory of their comrades lost here. Plus, there's a large memorial in memory of the men of the U.S. 34^th Division who lost a large number of personnel near Monte Cassino.

Strange it was to be staying at the Continental because in 1944 saw this building destroyed to a heap of rubble.

Fortunately, all our accommodations were on the first floor and in adjourning rooms. To finish the day all the party went out for an evening meal in a nearby restaurant.

Sun. 16^th May - The camera crew made an early start as John was required for filming. I was at breakfast when the party returned. Previously, John had been introduced to Emilia Di Mascia, who at one time lived in Coventry, married an Italian, then 10 years ago returned to Italy making their home in a mountain village named Valvori, no great distance from Cassino town.

Emilia had a friend whose home also was Coventry, and she was on vacation in Cassino her name was Maria. Emilia had a car and kindly offered to transport us around when we were not required for filming.

Our first journey was to the "Polish Cemetery." At the entrance and with your back to the Monastery, you have a long avenue; on either side are a type of Italian fir trees, a long walk takes you to the large outdoor auditorium where round the perimeter is a stone seat.

Now you come to the "eternal flame" behind which are row upon row of headstones and crosses, many are draped with Rosaries, many young men lay here.

I overheard one Polish veteran state there were a number of his pals laying side by side as they all became casualties at the same time. In the very front is the resting place of their Commander General Wladyslaw Anders

From the Polish Cemetery we made our way to the British and Commonwealth Cemetery; here witnessed the damage to the cross of sacrifice which had been destroyed when lightening struck the Cross of Sacrifice leaving it shattered and broken into short lengths of concrete, a notice nearby stated that work for the repair was in hand.

On the colonnades are the names of all those persons who have no known grave; even so, they're still remembered.

The majestic rows of headstones marks the spot of many brave young men, who gave their all, that those of us that were left could live a worthwhile life; standing amongst the graves one cannot help becoming overcome by remorse and sadness, more so when one sees the names of comrades who were beside you in previous actions Its doubtful if anyone can honestly say they never shed a tear in this peaceful God's garden.

Sunday afternoon. John and I accompanied Emilia and Maria to St. Angelo where a memorial service was to be held (an annual custom) on the banks of the 'River of Blood' so called because of the vast number of casualties suffered there by American and Allied troops. The U.S. 36^th Division suffered huge casualties from enemy fire, also drowning when the assault boats collapsed, finally a bridgehead was made but due to the intense shelling it was found impossible to consolidate.

Following the service both civil and military officials made speeches, a large contingent of Italian, Polish, New Zealand, U.S.A. British Fusiliers, Irish Fusiliers, Germans and civilians had gathered to pay homage. From the bridge flags and banners of many nations were flown, children scattered flowers and petals, finally a large wreath was dropped onto the very fast flowing water, at this moment bugles were sounded, this was a most exceptional and moving.

Certainly a climax to a memorable day.

Mon. 17^th May - Opening up the window shutters, saw some people with umbrellas up, thus wondered what the days weather would be, as it happened, turned into a very warm, sunny day.

After breakfast, John and I were collected and with the good ladies were driven to the German Cemetery; travelling along this route; my mind immediately went back to March 15^th, 1944 when we cautiously made our way along this road (but in the opposite direction); now I saw it in reverse order. First you see the old Quarry (which was our Bn HQ) where our CO Lt. Col. Arthur Noble was wounded; several runners had attempted to deliver messages, but many failed to reach it.

Next landmark is the old Italian prison on the right; some way further stands the Italian Barracks (in 1971, the whole area was stacked with various artillery pieces). Finally, coming to a road junction the branch to the right takes you to the German Cemetery and its car park.

Opposite this junction is an area called Wadi Villa, this was our Bn position, very unfavourable one, it was as well. Laid there for 3 weeks during which time we were under continuous observation from a German O.P. on the 5000 ft high Mt. Caira. Movement was kept to a minimum during daylight hours, while waiting in this area there was torrential rain, to the extent weapons and blankets were swept away, this was one spot in Italy we never forgot.

The village of Caira was near to the road junction. Our Regimental Aid Post was sited and used a great deal due to our casualties through shelling.

With transport parked, made our way to the entrance of the Cemetery, first you see the Museum on its roof are two large bells, there's a visitors room with books to sign, these were in languages of many nationalities. Advancing further you see rows of crosses, each one marks the resting place of these servicemen. Another one there are square slabs each one bears the names of 20 personnel; again you can only wonder at the age of these servicemen, like in our own cemetery, youth and everyone loved by someone.

While in this place of peacefulness, can hear the call and whistle of many varieties of birds, there are an abundance of trees and bushes for their home.

At our hotel a German by the name of Bob Frettlohr was there to be interviewd (his home is in Yorkshire), him and I were to be filmed in this cemetery shortly, reason being we were firing at each others position in March 1944.

Monday afternoon Alan - Rebecca - Dave - Brad - Bob - and myself made our way to the German Cemetery; here Bob and I were to be filmed attempting to relive the days of March 15^th - 20^th 1944, when neither knowing that each was attempting to eliminate the other in this particular action, when it was infantry against infantry, we each described our views and feelings.

It was now I learnt that Bob's unit, Pioneer Rgt. 1st German Para Div. were planning to attack with flame throwers, the Essex lads positions which was the Castle - i.e. Rocca Janula - we certainly would have been at a disadvantage, fortunately these weapons of Bob's malfunctioned, this certainly was music to my ears - today.

It certainly was an experience meeting an old enemy, and finding out that their feelings and thoughts were on similar lines to our own, which was, when is all this killing going to come to an end. We both remarked on the lull in the filming.

Tues. 18^th May - Made an early morning visit to our friend Federico Lamberti who has a well stocked stationary and gift shop; also visited a nearby florists to purchase a bouquet for our friends Emilia and Maria as a token of appreciation for supplying transport, and giving us so much of their time, which was greatly appreciated.

Also while at the florists decided to send Mary, my wife, flowers, which apparently arrived in record time.

Sadly, this is John's last full day with us, to me he's been a real comrade, and companion, has given me untold assistance, it was only today found out he'd been an officer, can only think his men had great respect for him.

From midday I was required for filming at Rocca Janula, where on March 15^th the Essex men were to relieve the New Zealanders.

Alan - Rebecca - the film crew, myself and Federico travelled up the road to the Castle; the road consisted of a series of hairpin bends; these were heavily contested in 1944. At one spot there's a pull in and only a short distance from the Castle; from now on the filming and battle procedure commenced.

Prior to the start Alan had given me strict instructions that I was to take my time on the walk and halt whenever necessary. Now I was walking upright which during the battle would have been impossible. I pointed out the various fields of fire, also the corner where our Medical Officer carried out his duties ignoring the bullets and shell fire. I reached the part where looking to my right was opposite where part of the Castle wall was blasted; it collapsed burying about 12 men, including an officer; some of the men were from my No. 9 Platoon A Company; this was a severe setback and shocked all at the time.

It was now my emotions got the better of me, and tears trickled down my face, (I apologized to Alan for this).

A little further on I pointed to the spot where my O.C., A Company, Major Frank Kettley M.C. was killed by a sniper, his orderly who was nearby had a bullet through his steel helmet but only grazing his scalp.

Our casualties were increasing rapidly, from then on C Coy. O.C., Major Dennis Beckett, C.B., D.S.O., O.B.E., later Major General, took over command and organized the all round defence; many Germans reached the Castle wall. A Corporal Eddie Parker was firing a Bren gun when a sniper killed him; a second man Pte. Huggett took the gun and continued firing; he also was a victim of the sniper; finally a Pte. Ken Smith took over the position; we can only assume he killed the sniper, as fire from that particular place ceased for this Ken was awarded the Military Medal and well deserved.

Fighting at times was at very close quarter. German stick grenades were thrown at us; we replied using our 36 Mills grenade, which from my position we were able to just roll down the mountain side. Fortunately, we'd stocked up with grenades before leaving Wadi-Villa.

One of my platoon Bren gunmen, Pte. George De Court who'd accounted for a number of the enemy, had 3 stick grenades fall in his position. Two were promptly returned, but he was just too late to dispose of the last one; sadly he was a fatal casualty.

At one point 2 German stretcher bearers approached the Castle carrying a Red Cross Flag; now there was a lull in the shooting, with a request to be allowed to collect up their wounded; a Gurkha officer who spoke fluent German was able to converse, thus a message was dispatched to Bn. HQ and Brigade.

It was now our own stretcher bearers left the Castle - the party included about 14 German P.O.W.s who volunteered to accompany them; thus, all wounded were collected and brought inside for medical attention; those collected were English, Gurkha, German, New Zealanders and Indians; now our Medical Officer, Captain R.J. Pellow, RAMC carried out fantastic work, ably assisted by his Medical orderlies.

There were many brave and heroic deeds done over the whole period, many possibly not recognized.

Now, looking across from Castle to Monastery Hill, only then realized what a very difficult task had been assigned to us which was capture the Monastery.

As a fighting force it appeared our casualties were such that a relief would have to take place; thus,on the 20th March, 0600 hrs., those of us who were left in the Castle were relieved by 6th RWK. from 78 Div.; in the darkness, cautiously we made our way down to the road then to Wadi - Villa from where we'd left March 15^th 1944. During this action casualties for the 14th Essex exceeded 150, exclusive of those who were still forward with the Gurkhas.

Before finally leaving the Castle, would mention, up to now no human remains have been uncovered. Should they be then they will be given a full military funeral. Also their names will be on a plaque and placed on the appropriate wall.

Its now time for me to descend from what was an action-filled position, and look towards the spot where those brave lads were last seen; my thoughts were, "Rest-in-Peace--You're still remembered."

For me using Calipers found the walk not too strenuous, as I made use of the workman's walkway. I did ask a workman if any human remains or souvenirs had been uncovered, the reply was only bayonets - rifles - grenades and some personal effects….

It's quite possible there are events which I've missed. For this I apologize, but then this did all happen 55 hears, 64 days ago.

I would like to thank friend Fred Lamberti who, out of camera view, carried a chair as I walked around the Castle; when I questioned him he said the chair was for me had I needed a rest; this I appreciated, but I never used it.

To Alan - Rebecca - Dave - and Bradley, I feel indebted for the help and consideration shown me during the whole episode. Also feel very honoured, and favoured to be invited to play one small party in what must finally be a huge project, one which I hope will be seen by many people around the world.

With filming finished for the day, made our way back to the transport, then lunch at the Continental.

Late afternoon - the town square began to fill with people; V.I.P.s were taking up positions on the Town Hall steps, afterwards a ceremony commenced followed by wreath laying at the Cassino memorial. Afterwards, a very impressive display of Polish Soldiers - Naval and Air Force person; this included rifle drill - rifle drill on the march, all done to music supplied by their own band. Their Drum Major certainly proved his skill when throwing the mace. The entire display John and I witnessed from my balcony.

There had been a very special service on the Polish cemetery, the roads were crowded with traffic as this was a very special day for the Poles. Many relatives of those who are buried here made the journey for this special occasion. Weather was good but very hot, causing some spectators to collapse, these were quickly conveyed away by ambulances. ??

In the evening with all aboard, Rebecca drove us away from Cassino then up a very winding mountain road finally reaching the village of Valvori where we stopped outside a restaurant names "La Bellavista, via Michele"; apparently this is only a shout distance from another will known Bn. position "Wadi Portello.

At the restaurant we sat down to a first class, well cooked meal, very enjoyable, likewise the company. Rebecca had a well wrapped bon with her which Alan was curious as to its contents; when all our glasses had been charged with a special mixture the box was handed to Alan; at this point he was wished a Happy 50^th Birthday. I accompanied the party singing "Happy Birthday" on my harmonica. [Note from Alan Winson: Bill then stood up, cleared his throat and regaled us with a couple of WWII era songs while accompanying himself on the harmonica. Nice voice.]

Emilia's home being nearby in Valvori she joined us for the meal. Also a local joined us for drinks, sitting next to me; thus during our conversation found that during the war he'd lived only a short distance from here; he also remembered the incident when an Italian vehicle carrying civilian personnel crashed; as a result some bodies were thrown down the hillside onto boulders and thickets into Wadi Portello; I explained that one of our Company Commanders helped in the rescue and it was Major Beckett who is mentioned in the Castle episode.

Also, our Bn. was in the position in the Wadi in Feb. 44 and from here watched the planes bomb the Monastery Feb. 15^th 1944. It was in the Wadi that the Bn. had its first casualty, one of my platoon Pte. W. Cole. Even in this Wadi we did not escape from the Enemy O.P. on Mt. Caira.

After this very pleasant evening commenced the downhill journey back to the hotel; even on this journey the Monastery all lit up was a wonderful sight; there below it was the town with lights flickering, everywhere what a contrast to what this area was all like 55 years ago. In a number of streets and sidewalks in Cassino town one can look up and there in full view is the magnificent building of the Benedictine Monastery.

Wed. 19^th May - Today John leaves the hotel by taxi to Cassino station, then train to Rome Airport, for the journey to Heathrow; on bidding him farewell promised to keep in contact, which I'm sure we will, very pleased to have had the pleasure of working with him.

It was also an experience to meet and shake hands with so many nationalities, some who were our enemy's all those years ago, and to know of their hardships and setbacks like those who were on the Allied side.

Finally, many thanks to Alan and Rebecca for all those evening meals and to David and Brad for being so patient with me.

Thurs. 20^th May - This is my final day, so with all luggage on the transport made a fairly early start for the journey to Rome Airport where I shall have a flight to Heathrow, and Alan Rebecca David and Brad will head for the United States.

The whole has been me been a wonderful, once in a lifetime experience.

Bill Hawkins - August 1999.

NOTE FROM THE PROJECT DIRECTOR: Thanks, Bill, for giving your time so generously to the Monte Cassino project and for the corrections on this diary.

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