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John Williams' diary of a visit to Cassino, Italy*
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It was August 1st when I first made contact with Alan Winson of Grand Island Films, New York, USA; Alan had the great desire to produce a T.V. documentary about the Battle of Monte Cassino in World War II.
Whitsun last year, I had a 3 1/2 hour meeting with Alan at the Imperial War Museum, I found it a moving but exhilarating experience. I was impressed by his knowledge of the Battle and his tremendous enthusiasm to …present a visual picture of human experiences pertaining to Soldiers and Civilians from many countries, who were there during 5 months conflict.
Reason for wanting to return to Cassino: I, like many thousands of veterans have a longing to retrace our steps and live again through some horror in order to gain release and lay a ghost that haunts.
Many years ago, I was on holiday with friends, and we took a coach trip to Cassino, visiting the Monastery which had been rebuilt. I could get no further than the main square leading into the Abbey, I had gone to the look out area with a magnificent view of the Liri Valley, and Mount Trocchio and Rapido River, memories came flooding back of the brutal war, the thousands who died, the fear that we had of the Germans vantage points looking down on our every position and movement. I just stood there and cried bitterly; I could not cope.
Early this year, Alan, his wife and producer, Rebecca invited me to join them in Cassino to be filmed and interviewed. This would give me the chance to try once again, to search for the localities of nightmares, and hopefully bring me release. May 11th this year was the 55th Anniversary of 'D' Day and 'H' Hour of the last and final attack on Cassino and Monte Cassino.
I was just one ex -soldier amongst others, Americans, Germans, Italians, New Zealanders, French etc, Civilians, the Abbot of the Monastery, who had been, or was to be filmed and interviewed.
Travelling to Cassino: I flew from Heathrow (London) to Rome, to await the arrival of the Americans, in order that I could join them for the road journey to Cassino.
Timing should have been only one hour difference between our respective arrivals; however, the baggage handlers at Heathrow had failed to transfer vital equipment from the New York flight to the British Airways London connection. Eventually, Rebecca and Alan had to accept a promise that the equipment would be delivered to our Hotel in Cassino the following day.
Nearly 3 hours after my arrival at Rome, the "crew" arrived. I was so pleased to seem them. Alan arrived first, an advanced guard as it were. A little latter, David Goldsmith, the camera man and Bradley Rappa, the sound man, also camera man arrived. Immediately, they put me at ease, and I knew I was going to enjoy working with them. Soon after Rebecca homed in, a huge welcoming smile lit up her face, and we hugged as if we had been very old friends.
I related to them about the kindness of the B .A. lady in charge of the cabin crew on my flight. She had enquired of me as to where I was staying in Rome; she was surprised when I said I was going to Cassino, and then after she enquired why Cassino. I told her about the filming etc. Just before we landed she brought me four bottles of champagne and said to celebrate with the Americans the completion of the filming.
Collecting the very large rental car, we set off in bright warm sunshine, heading for Cassino, stopping on route to eat and drink.
Seeing the Abbey and arrival in Cassino: Some miles prior to reaching Cassino, I spied the Monastery on top of the mountain, the sun reflecting against the walls. Entering the town I immediately realised that it covered a much greater area than during the war.
Arriving at the Hotel Continental situated in the pleasant Piazza De Gasperi, greeted by Luigi Fulvio, the proprietor, we soon settled in, and I went for a stroll to explore the immediate locality. I was impressed with the small park in front of the hotel, and just to our right a large square with the Cassino War Memorial, a Sherman tank, a Field gun and plaques from British Forces.
I then investigated a huge Piazza where fairs, plays and various community activities took place. Proceeding further afield I found myself in a very long straight busy street. As I turned to my right, there in the distance was the huge Monastery Hill rising out of the town, surmounted by the Monastery.
Fear came flooding and I shivered badly
as I was once again hypnotised through the overpowering horror
and fear we all had during and prior to the battle of this
fearsome building once whole and then ruined by a huge American
Air Force strike. This was a real bad feeling again, and it was
some time before I could relax once more.
During the afternoon, I was introduced to Emilia Di Mascio, a really lovely lady, married an Italian, lived in Coventry, remembers the terrible Blitz there. 10 years ago they came to live in Valvori, a village in the mountains, not too far from Cassino. She had many contacts with the Monastery authorities from the Abbot downwards, that doors were unlocked for us on many occasions.
Federico, (Fred) Lamberti who owned a Book Shop, selling also, papers, books, maps, office and student requirements etc., told me he had spent time in Scotland, England and Wales as a representative/salesman for his Italian firm. He knows everyone that matters, and has published a number of books regarding the Cassino battles. He also helped the film crew in liaising and arranging meetings for Rebecca, Alan, David and Brad.
That night, Brad, David and myself had a really good meal at a local pizzeria, both are great guys, very professional in their work and outlook. Both are in their thirties and live with girlfriends in Brooklyn. They were so easy to talk to, and we hit if off immediately.
Visiting the Monastery: The next day, May 15th, the crew and myself set off for the Benedictine Monastery. Emilia and her friend staying from Coventry joined us in the Monastery car park. The road up was very steep, with many hairpin bends, the mountain was completely barren when I last saw it, but now following a great deal of planting, it is generously covered with trees.
It was a lovely warm morning and there were hundreds of visitors. In the car park I had a miniature microphone fitted to my shirt with a battery placed inside my hip pocket. I was to make my own way into the Monastery and roam as I wished. David the camera man followed my every movement, even when I prayed in the Basilica and exploring the museum.
We were extraordinarily privileged through the good offices of Emilia and her Abbey contacts to be allowed into the very depths. Pressure had been building within me throughout my walk, especially viewing photographs taken during the war, and when I entered St Martins Chapel, I could contain myself no longer and I broke down.
The crew left me alone as I tried desperately to stem my tears. It was a little while before I recovered and rejoined the team. Finally, Emilia had arranged for doors to be unlocked as we descended to the very depths. Here were some walls from the very original Abbey built in the year 529 AD, upon the ruins of Apollo's Altar. This is where the Monks took shelter during the battles and the bombing. [Note from the Director: During the Feb. 1944 bombardment the Monks were not actually in the section that John mentions, but close by.]
Leaving the Abbey we stopped on the way down at a restaurant where we had an excellent meal, nearby were the ruins of a Roman Amphitheatre.
Interviewed
at La Pietra / Search for former O.P.: That afternoon,
we drove to La Pietra where my battery "Smoke HQ" was
situated in a sunken area amongst shelled buildings. There I was
filmed both on my way to Mount Trocchio, but also during a very
long interview sitting on a chair in a field with Trocchio as the
background. I felt quite nervous, but Alan, Dave, and Brad were
extremely supportive, so although I was shaking inside and had a
couple of bad feelings, the 90 minutes or so went well.
We then approached the massive Mount Trocchio itself, and after a while I was able to identify the exact spot where I had an unprotected O.P. (Observation Point).
The continuous shelling and mortaring to which I had been subjected had completely devastated the whole area. This really gave me the shivers; I recalled the noise, the fear, the hurt. Alan started off up the mountain endeavouring to find a way, only to be repelled by a disturbed snake, and in any case progress in that direction was really impossible. Meanwhile Dove and Brad were filming smoke covering the valley.
I then told Alan I thought a narrow track squeezed between dense woods, looked to me as if that could be the one I was looking for, and proceeded along it. Alan joined me.
Fairly soon we cleared the tree line, climbing all the time. I now felt sure I was on the right track, continuing through olive trees, to scrub and grassland. There it was the trail that I had followed in the dark on 'D' Day 'H' Hour 11pm May, 1st. Then, I had followed white tape through a mine field, lit continuously by the thousands of gun flashes as the incredible barrage from one thousand one hundred guns opened up on our front.
I would have liked to have climbed the last part, but with the setting of the sun and darkness fast approaching it was out of the question. However, I stood there and thanked God that I had not died there. Meanwhile, Dave and Brad had been busy filming me and the entire battle field.
The impossible after 55 years and 4 days had become possible and as the sun disappeared and I walked away, I felt relieved that I had after all coped.
A morning visit
to the Polish Cemetery: 
May 16th, an
early start 06:30 a.m., we set out for the Polish cemetery, once
again a fair old climb for the car and its load. The approach to
the cemetery is through huge iron gates, down very wide steps to
a very long avenue lined with a type of fir/Cyprus trees- very
attractive yellow and green and very bushy. A lone gardener was
sweeping up leaves, at the far end of the avenue more steps
leading upwards to two ornamental gates hung from huge marble
pillars mounted with the Polish emblem. Facing us was a huge
amphitheatre, a vast auditorium surrounded by a stone wall and
continuous stone seat.
The middle of the auditorium contained an Eternal Flame, and a raised flat memorial. Beyond were tier after tier rising up the hill, forming a vast semicircle. Each tier contained many graves, each with its marble cross, some of which had rosaries hanging from them. Mid way up stood a very large marble altar.
Beyond and above the final tier was a massive stone Polish emblem, in the middle of a huge cross formed by the same type of firs growing in the avenue. I was filmed looking at some of the graves, among which was a Polish soldier from New York. The entire cemetery faced the Abbey higher on the mountain. As David and Brad continued the filming and recording, we were aware of the wonderful bird chorus, broken by a cuckoo. How peaceful it was so early in the morning, with light clouds closing in on the Monastery.
Bill Hawkins arrives: Bill Hawkins from Essex was collected from Rome airport by Rebecca on Saturday morning. He had been a Sergeant with the 4th Essex Infantry Battalion and had a really bad time during the battle. Their company had relieved the New Zealanders in the Castle and on Castle Hill. Rocca Janula was a medieval castle originally built as a defence against attack on the Abbey in times gone by, battered and broken by the bombing and shelling.
Bill was to be filmed on Castle Hill, and at the German cemetery discussing the battle with Bob Frettlohr who was a German soldier up at the Monastery and was firing upon the Essex. Bob was wounded and taken prisoner by the Poles and was one of the very last German soldiers remaining in the Monastery locality. Bill and I had much to talk about, one of his legs did not function so he got around pretty well with the use of two callipers.
Sunday 16th, Emilia and Maria collected Bill and myself and took us to the Polish cemetery as they thought there was to be a Mass there; however, that was not so; so, off we went to visit the Commonwealth Cemetery.
Visiting the Commonwealth Cemetery: At the entrance huge banks of red roses adorned both sides of the small car park. Ascending a few steps through a high wall, this beautiful cemetery spread itself almost as far as the eye could see. The precision in which the thousands of headstones are placed in such that wherever one looked at them, row upon row were always in line. Between each row, neatly cut green grass paths and planted colourful British flower. In the centre is an oblong pool, red and white water lilies grace the sparkling waters. At the far end stood a tall cross embossed with a huge metal sword, however this had been struck by lightening last October and the stone column of the cross lies in pieces awaiting a replacement.
On either side of the pool are tall columns bearing the names of those who died from smaller Commonwealth countries. The perimeter of the cemetery is lined with tall trees, with smaller ones placed around the graves. Overlooking the cemetery is Monte Cassino and the Monastery. Bill and I were looking for and finding the graves of our Officers and other Ranks, picturing them as they were all those years ago -so sad. Here again we listened to the birds singing.
I expressed to Emilia that of all places to be buried this surely must be the best, a paradise on earth, such colour, beauty and peace. She said that if she had worries she would come to this cemetery just to sit and enjoy the flowers and the peace.
Ceremonies on the Rapido River: Later that day at 4:30pm, Emilia and Maria once again returned to collect Bill and I from our hotel to take us to Sant Angelo on the river to join in the special annual remembrance service for the thousands of American soldiers who lost their lives there.
The 36th American Division had attacked across the river and after many casualties from enemy fire and drowning in the river as assault bouts collapsed, a bridge head was made on the far side of the river, but owing to the murderous fire and shelling from the Germans they were unable to consolidate their gain, and most of those were killed.
The river ran with blood and now that section is called the "River of Blood". Following a long service and speeches by officials, both Civic and Military; wreaths were laid at the Memorial. From the bridge bedecked with all the Nations Flags who fought there, children scattered flower petals on the water, creating colourful lines as the water rushed them along. Finally, a large wreath was dropped, unfortunately landing upside down.
Amongst those attending was a large contingent from the British Royal Fusiliers, Italians, Irish Fusiliers, Germans, New Zealanders, Americans and Polish. Whilst there, I was able to identify further up the river where "London Bridge" was constructed during the final battle and which I was responsible for the protective "Smoke Screen". I also noted the spot where I had been sniped at, a new church had been erected where the shelled and bombed church had originally stood.
May 17th, the first slight rain we had experienced, cloudy but warm, before long the sun broke through and we enjoyed yet another lovely day. Early in the morning, I was required to do some "voice over" to compliment some of the filming at Mount Trocchio, and then sing Lili Marlene, my first effort was not very good, but a repeat recording of the song, sang at a lower key, I understand came out quite well.
Visiting the German Cemetery: Later Emilia and Maria took Bill and myself to the German cemetery, built into the mountain, some way passed the old barracks and prison.
Like the others very peaceful, complete with the expected bird songs. Typical German construction, all very stark and precise, no flowers. The graves were in continuous tiers covered with the same green ground cover, small stone crosses, no names protruded from the ground cover, one cross per three bodies. Tier upon tier rose in almost a complete circle, with stone walls enclosing every four or five tiers, at the very top was a large plateau with a number of low memorials and at the far end, a massive steel cross, it appeared to be constructed of steel girders.
At this point there is an incredible view of the mountains some snow capped, beyond the plateau lies a large green mound, with a number of trees- a resting area for visitors, here also stands a column supporting a lamp encased in glass and which was lit by Pope Paul VI in memory of the fallen at Cassino.
Last day in Cassino and one more on-camera stint: May 18th, my last full day there, I was basically on vacation yesterday and today, my schedule for filming etc completed. Early in the morning I and Bill went to the Florist, he to sent flowers home to his wife, whilst I purchased flowers for Emilia and Maria who had been so good to us. Because that day was the very special day, 55 years ago the Poles raised the Polish flag over the ruins of the Monastery. Red roses, white roses, red and white gladiolus, red and white are colours of the Polish flag. Red also for love and white for peace. We arrived back at the hotel to find Emilia and Maria waiting to take us to the special service at the Polish cemetery, Bill was required for filming, so just myself went with them.
All the roads around the area were packed with parked cars, so we had to drop Maria off as close as possible to the cemetery (she had recently had a "bypass heart" operation). The nearest we could park was at the Monastery car park, some considerable distance, so that by the time we reached the cemetery, the service had started some thirty minutes earlier, it was scheduled to last 3 1/2 hours.
Seats had been placed in front of every grave, so a thousand or so could be seated there, plus many more on the stone seating area. The place was packed with people of many countries. At the very top, there were a huge number of Veteran Associations with their standards, and a Guard of Honour comprised of Polish Army, Navy and Air Force.
Dozens of huge wreaths with every grave having the Polish flag in miniature. The Abbot and High Clergy conducted the service mostly in Polish and Italian, but one prayer was said in English.
Flags of all the nations who fought at Cassino bravely fluttered in the wind. Communion was also held for the Catholics present. Many of the attendees were descendants of the dead, so they were able to sit by their loved ones' graves and mourn. It was all very moving.
It was very hot and there were people who collapsed and were taken to hospital. Hundreds of free bottles of water were available at various points.
I spotted the American crew who had been filming and they were surprised to see me there; they then decided to include me in their filming.
4.30 PM almost outside our hotel and adjacent to the Cassino War Memorial, a laying of wreaths took place, followed by 30 minutes display of marching by Polish Soldiers and Navy, also by the Polish Band. It was very good, I was impressed. Bill and I were able to watch it from the Balcony. Here again it was hot and a large crowd of people, two of which collapsed and taken to hospital.
Last meal in Cassino and a treat from the restaurant owner: My last night, so we all went to out local eating place, and I having mentioned it to the owner he presumed we were all leaving on the next day, so after the meal he brought us all a large glass bowl of beautiful sweet strawberries; Alan went back to the hotel to get the bottles of champagne which British Airways had given me; we invited the owner to join us, and three locals also joined in our celebration and fun. A fitting end for me.
I am so glad that I was given such a wonderful opportunity not only to return and recall an important part of my army life, but also to enjoy immensely the friendship of Alan, Rebecca, David, Brad, Bill, Emilia, Maria and Fred. It was also good to greet and shake hands with many soldiers friend and foe, not to forget, but certainly to forgive.
I will be seeing my new American friends in New York some time in September as they have kindly invited me to stay.
I am so very lucky and feel so humble to have been part of
something which in due course will be shown on television around
the world.
John E. Williams
23rd May, 1999
Note from the Director: John did, indeed visit with us in our home in NYC and in one week I think he saw all the major sights. It was a great thrill to spend some time with this great gentleman and to introduce him to our children.
* The picture at the top of this page was drawn by John and is "Heatherdown," formerly, his uncle's house.