The Jews of Africa -- The House of Israel of Ghana

The House of Israel Community, Ghana

the setting

Most members of the House of Israel community of Ghana live in Sefwi Wiawso, a small city in the southwestern corner of Ghana, somewhat near the nation’s border with the Ivory Coast. There is one main street in Sefwi Wiawso, a dirty road that runs along the top of a ridge overlooking the green hills of the region. Small shops line either side of the main strip, including a general goods store owned by community member Kofi Kwateng and a photography operation, "Vote for God Photos," run by community leader David Ahenkorah. Other members of the community live in a small farming village called Sefwi Sui, which is approximately twenty miles from Wiawso.

Though the main street of Sefwi Wiawso is paved, the road leading the couple miles down to the New Adiembra neighborhood, the center of the Jewish community, is dirt and scattered with holes. Groves of coconut and plantain trees line either side of the road, and fields of cassava and yams are tucked behind them. There are also small, brick houses along the road, out of which little children run to greet visitors with a happy "brunei!" (white man).

New Adiembra is a small, close collection of houses. The Sefwi Wiawso Jews moved there after neighbors in their old area, Adiembra, beat and imprisoned them for preaching Judaism. Most of the community’s hundred or so members live in New Adiembra, including David Ahenkorah, Brother Isaiah, and the extensive Armah family. The Jews live within walking distance of each other, of Brother Isiah’s house where they meet every night to discuss Judaism, and of the new synagogue where they meet to pray.

The air in Sefwi Wiawso is thick and hot. Even so, children run around all day, playing games and reciting lessons they’ve learned in school. Goats and chickens wander the streets freely, bah-ing and clucking respectively. There are few cars but when one goes by it often chugs due to a failing engine. Only at night does the cacophony of rural life recede into a comfortable silence.