Give them a call. Tell them that you've spent the last two months studying the breed, you met them at this past local show, and you are dying (not just interested, but dying! to find a good show puppy. Ask more questions. Find out the strengths and weaknesses of the breed, make an appointment to see the breeder's dogs. Go and ask questions.

If you have contacted the right breeder, he or she should be willing to spend time with you and answer your questions. Ask them for names of people to whom they have puppies (this is important!), and call them. Ask about upcoming litters (you probably won't have to ask), and be willing to wait for a good one.

If this is your first show dog, it is important to deal with a local breeder, if possible. Your breeder is close by to give advice and encouragement (you'll need it), and you are more likely to get the style of dog being shown in your area. If the local breeder doesn't seem to be willing to give advice and encouragement, you've got the wrong breeder. Move on!

Now that you've chosen the right breeder and waited for a good litter, how do you know that this eight week old ball of fur will be a show dog? You don't! But there are guidelines.

First, rely on your breeder. The right breeder doesn't want an inferior animal from his kennel in the show ring (ALL litters have some inferior puppies). Second, ask your breeder for a pedigree. If both the sire (father) and dam (mother) are both champions and there are top producers (parents) in the pedigree, your chances are better that the puppy will live up to your hopes.

At this point, it is important to know that you are buying a show prospect. Your breeder can make an educated judgement, but no one has a crystal ball. Too many things can happen to a puppy in its development that will render it unsuitable for the ring. But an old (or maybe not so old) adage says, "The better the pedigree, the better the pup."

Now let's mention inherited defects. They are present in every breed, to a greater or lesser extent. The most debilitating, and heartbreaking, defects are hip dysplasia (a malformation, sometimes painful and crippling, or the hip joint), retinal dysplasia and progressive retinal atrophy (sometimes causing blindness), and a temperament problem called "rage syndrome." Rage, researchers think, is a type of canine epilepsy that occurs in a different part of the brain than regular epilepsy and results in unprovoked attacks. Ask your breeder about these defects and steer away from them. Ask questions.

It's important to build a bond of trust with your breeder. You need to rely on him or her for conformation, and other, advice. But you need to learn and understand the Breed Standard. Ask your breeder to point out the puppy's faults and good points. Remember, there are no perfect dogs, but if the puppy has three or more faults, it's a good idea to stay away from it.

A good attitude is essential for a good show dog. Watch your prospective puppy. A shy, nervous, or fearful puppy probably will not develop the outgoing, enthusiastic personality that is essential for the show ring. However, we all have bad days, so don't make a snap judgement. If you like the puppy, ask the breeder to guarantee the temperament. Take it home for a week to ten days. If it doesn't come out of its shell, take it back.

Now let's discuss health. Every reputable breeder will guarantee that your puppy will be free of contagious diseases for at least two weeks. If your breeder won't give this guarantee, run, don't walk, away as fast as you can. On the way home, or as soon as practicable, take your pup to the vet for an examination.

Some show breeders will guarantee that hips, eyes, size, dentitation, and temperment are sound. If so, be prepared to pay more for this puppy than one who is not guaranteed. Also, be prepared to discuss what happens if your pup develops one of these problems. Most breeders will offer a replacement.

Your puppy should have been wormed, had at least one set of DHLP injections, and a parvo shot. It should come with a certification of clear eyes from a Veterinary Ophthamologist.

In addition to a healthy animal, your breeder should give you a puppy packet at the time of purchase. it should contain an AKC "Blue Form" for registration, a pedigree, a shot record and eye certificate, and information on feeding, care, and training. It may also include a sales contract. If any special agreements are made, such as show agreements, puppy back, stud services, co-ownerships, etc., it should be spelled out in the contract so everyone has a clear understanding of what is expected of them.

Your breeder should also provide information about training and trimming, and be able to steer you toward books and magazines on your breed and training classes in your area. When the time comes, he or she will also know about matches and shows.

As a buyer you should expect emotional support and encouragement from your breeder. You should expect an honest evaluation of your puppy, enthusiasm over its successes, guidance and advice on when and where to show, and if and when to use a professional handler.

Now you've gotten started! But there are certain obligations that you as a buyer, show person, and owner owe to the breeder. After all, he or she has entrusted this little life into your care for the next ten to fifteen years, so he or she has more than passing interest in the development of your dog.

You have just acquired a new little bundle of joy who has no idea of where the bathroom is. What do you do??

House breaking must be learned in two parts. The first thing the puppy must learn is what to do when taken outside. Nature helps on this part. If a puppy is confined to a small area he will try not to potty in the same place he has to sleep. When he is allowed out of that area he will want to potty right away. It is your job to immediately take him to the place you have decided for him to use and praise him with a pat and a "good dog" for using it.

Let's talk about "confining your puppy to a small place." The trick that works the best is to "crate train" your pup. A cage or "crate" can be wire or molded plastic. A wire crate allows the pup to see you and allows ample ventilation. Some wire crates have a top that folds over so you can reach the pup to clean or pet while still confining him. The molded plastic crate or "sky kennel" has a wire front door and wire grids in the sides. It has the advantage of being airline approved and if you have to travel "pup" is used to it. It also breaks in half for storage and cleaning and either half can be used as a dog bed later. I have both kinds.

Select a crate that will be large enough for your pup to comfortable fit in when he is fully grown. A male springer usually requires a size 400 sky kennel and a female a size 300. For a wire crate get one that is 27 inches,18 inches wide and 36 inches long.

Now this little 9 week old pup will have too much room in this big kennel so you must make his area smaller by putting a barrier or a box in the kennel with him so that he will have room to stand up, lay down and turn around ...but no more. Be aware that he will chew on whatever you use. Feed the pup in his kennel. Put toys in his kennel. Put a soft something to lay on in his kennel. This is his home. His own special place. Put pup in his crate anytime you can't watch him every minute. This means when you are gone or cooking or just busy. Don't worry about the confinement being "cruel". You would put a baby in a crib wouldn't you. The pup will regard the crate as his bed. Dogs are den animals. They like the security of small places. When my dogs are loose in the house they are usually asleep under a chair or table or in their crate with the door open. Adult dogs sleep 18 out of 24 hours each day. Puppies (as with babies) sleep much more. Think of a 2 month old puppy in the same terms development wise, as a 2 year old child.(Not potty trained and into everything.) The first year of a dogs life is approximately equal to 14 human years so 2 months to a pup= 2 years for a human. This thought process will give you a better idea of what to expect from your pup.

Teach pup to go into the kennel on command by tossing a cookie (dog treat) in and giving the command "kennel", "crate", "bed" or whatever you have decided to name the kennel. If pup objects to being confined and barks or whines, make a loud noise and say no! Do not allow any noise in the kennel. Some times a loud bang on top of the kennel will discourage any noise.

But you thought this was about house breaking. After your pup has been confined for thirty minutes or more in his crate and you take him out and immediately take him outside, he will go potty and you will praise. This process will very soon teach pup that going potty outside is a good thing.

If your pup doesn't go when you take him out, try putting the potty smell in the area by putting a paper he has used or has been used to clean up his potty in the area you want him to go. That should give him the idea.

Now what about the other part? You must also teach pup that is not ok to go potty in the house. Understand that every time an undesirable act happens and it is not immediately corrected, the undesirable act is reinforced. Nothing bad happened so it must be ok. Now it is your job to watch the pup every minute he is in the house. I recommend that his house time be limited to the kitchen because there will be accidents at first.

When the puppy is loose with you in the kitchen take him outside very often at first - about every twenty minutes. Ask him if he wants to go outside? He will learn to go to the door and he will learn the words "go outside". When he squats to potty in the appropriate place give him a command such as "hurry up" or "go potty" and you can actually teach him to go on command. This is very handy if it is raining or you are traveling or in a hurry. Note that I said "take him out" not send him out or let him out. It is important at this stage of the game that you be there for commands and praise when the deed is done.

What if he has an accident in the house?. If you catch him in the act, and you should be watching, yell NO and bang your hand on the table to make a loud noise. Immediately take the pup to the potty place and give him the potty command. Clean up the mess and wipe the area with vinegar to discourage a repeat. If you don't catch him in the act, just clean it up. He will not understand any correction five seconds after it is done.

Soon you will be able to recognize his body language that says "I have to go potty" and you will be able to take him out and give him the potty command and praise.

Very young pups will have to go potty after they eat, drink, wake up or exercise. Be vigilant, be consistent and you will be successful. Springers want to please you.  

Care of your English Springer Spaniel Puppy So, you have just acquired a new English Springer Spaniel puppy. Before you bring your bundle of joy home there are some things you should know.

Never take a puppy away from the litter before eight weeks of age. He needs the "extra" two weeks to learn social behavior from the dam and the litter mates.

Your new puppy should be checked out by your veterinarian as soon as possible and a vaccination schedule should be established. Your vet will also advise you about worming, heartworm preventation and flea control. Reputable breeders guarantee the health of their puppies for 7 to 10 days. Early diagnosis of any problems is very important. Your DID buy your pup from a breeder and not a pet shop DIDN'T you? If you did succumb to those sad spaniel eyes in a petshop, it is even more important to have pup checked out.

The puppy should come with

(1) proof of vaccinations and worming
(2) proof of eye exam by a veterinary Opthomologist
(3) AKC individual registration paper commonly called the "blue slip".
(4) a three or four generation pedigree
(5) a health guarantee.

Your puppy will need a clean, dry place to sleep. We recommend a crate. There are two basic types of crates. The first is a wire crate. The top opens on some models for easy access to the pup and the pan slides out for easy cleaning. The other type is the fiberglass crate also called the sky kennel. It is easy to clean, warmer and breaks in half for storage. (See my article on crate training your pup also on this web site). Do not let your pup sleep in your bed. It sends the message that you are part of the pup's litter; not the leader of the pack that you should be.

Your pup will need a leash and collar. I like a flat nylon buckle collar with a nylon six foot leash (or lead as show people call it). If you are planning to show your pup do not leave a collar on the dog because it will leave a dent on the neck-shoulder blend. But please put it on anytime you take your dog out of your yard. I recommend that you get a tag for the collar with your name and address in case the dog gets lost. Caution - Young pups grow very fast and collars should be checked often for fit.

Buy your pup a quality puppy food. We feed and recommend Iams Puppy food. We get nice shiny coats and healthy, energetic pups on it. How a dog looks, feels and smells is determined by his food. Many "grocery store" foods have a lot of filler and cause the pup to smell "doggy" very quickly after a bath. The premium foods like Iams, Science Diet and Eukanuba are more digestible and the amount of stool is firmer and there is less of it. (Important if you have several dogs.)

Feed an eight week old pup three times a day. He should be able to eat 1/2 to 3/4 of a cup at each meal. If he has trouble crunching it, wet it down with warm water for a few minutes before you give it to him. Most springers are food hounds but if your pup doesn't gobble up his food right away, take the food away after 30 minutes and do not give him any more until the next meal. This teaches the pup to eat his food right away. Do not leave the food down for him to nibble on all day. This method is called "free feeding" and studies indicate that dogs that are free fed do not eat as well as those that are not and nutrition can be affected. When your pup eats all his food increase it. He will do most of his growing the first six months of his life and his food requirement will increase with his size. By four or five months he may be eating one to two cups of dry food three times a day. At about six months most puppies will stop being very interested in the third meal and you can began feeding twice a day. Continue twice a day until the pup is a year old and then feed once a day. At about six months of age evaluate the pup's weight. He should have a waistline but you should not be able to easily feel ribs. Most adult springers eat between two to four cups of food a day depending on their metabolism and exercise.

Offer water several times a day. Some puppies will "tank up" on water and make housebreaking difficult. If the puppy is outside in warm weather make sure he has fresh water at all times. We consider anything over 70 degrees "warm weather".

You will save yourself money in the long run if you will buy the stainless steel bowls for feeding and a 1 quart stainless steel bucket for water. They are more expensive but will literally last the dog's lifetime and are virtually indestructible.

Bathe your puppy once a week with a good dog shampoo. We use BioªGroom. We have also used Johnson's baby shampoo because it is mild. Check the label on any flea shampoo you use to make sure it is OK for young puppies. Make sure your pup doesn't chill after his bath. Keep him inside until he is dry.

The bath should include cleaning his ears and emptying his anal glands. Ears should be cleaned with a mixture of 2/3 alcohol and 1/3 vinegar or you can buy an ear cleaner from your vet. Squirt a few drops of ear cleaner into the pups ears and rub the ears to loosen any buildup of wax. Wipe the ears out with a cotton ball. Springers are prone to ear infections and regular cleaning will help prevent problems. As a general rule if the ear wax is brown, it is normal, yellowish is infection and black like coffee grounds means ear mites.

The anal glands are two sacs located below the rectum. While the pup is in his bath being soaped up lift his tail straight up and with your thumb and forefinger press upward and outward on the area just below his anus. A dark foul smelling liquid will be expelled. You may have seen a dog scooting his rear on the floor and thought that he had worms but he really just needed to have his anal glands expelled.

Toenails are another part of regular care. Your pup's toenails should be trimmed weekly. If your springer is a show pup it is very important to trim the nails down close to the quick. Long toenails cause the foot to be misshapen (not what you want in the show ring). When you hold the pup's foot up to a light and push the toenail out, you will see the pink quick in the nail. Trim the nail just outside the quick. You can purchase nail trimmers at any pet shop or you can choose to grind the nails with an electric nail grinder. If you do happen to quick the nail and it bleeds, don't worry it will stop in a little while and it only hurt for a second. There is a product called Blood Stop that will help the nail coagulate and quit bleeding quickly.

Trimming is part of regular springer maintenance just like a haircut is necessary for you to look your best. A puppy that is not going to be shown should have a haircut every six to eight weeks and should be brushed weekly. It is important to begin the haircuts by twelve weeks to allow the puppy to get accustomed to the electric clippers and the grooming procedure. Puppies that are going to be show should be trimmed every two weeks. A show trim is a trim that is constantly maintained. It is very difficult to put a dog in a show trim after it has been neglected for several months.

If you would like to trim your own springer there is an initial investment of about $250.00 for clippers, table and arm, scissors and thinning shears but over the life of the dog it is a good investment. Most professional groomers charge $35.00 to $50.00 to bathe and trim a springer. Your breeder should be able to help you learn to trim your dog. Also many springer clubs offer grooming workshops.

It has been my experience that if you put your puppy on lead before he is ten weeks old he will be much easier to lead train. Just start by taking him for short walks and make it fun. Please refer to my article on housetraining also on this web site.

Every dog should learn house manners. Take your pup to obedience classes to learn the basics. Most classes will accept dogs four or five months old for kindergarten classes. They offer socialization and some basic obedience. It is fun for both puppy and owner.

English Springer Spaniels require exercise to keep them healthy, fit and trim. We recommend that you build a run as opposed to fencing your entire backyard. A controlled area such as a run can easily be kept flea and worm free and the chance of digging out can be minimized. Your flowers and plants and manicured lawn will be safe from energetic dogs. When building a run, remember dogs run the perimeter of a run, not the area. Long and fairly narrow runs work well. The minimum run for one or two springers should be eight(8) feet by twenty(20) feet. The dimensions of this run will allow a springer to run to it's hearts content.

Location, Location, Location:

Selecting a location is the first consideration. The run should be located in an area offering shade during the hot part of a day and offer good drainage. The run should be located on the north side of your home. This location will allow you to leave your springer outside for longer periods of time during summer months without fear of overheating. The shade is always better. Placing a run on the Northwest side of your home would be a second choice for morning exercise. Any other location will require short exercise periods with constant checks to ensure your springer isn't overheating due to the sun. The south side of your home receives sun during all periods of the day and is a poor location. Fresh water should be available at all times regardless of the location of the run. If possible, a small area should be covered by shade cloth, a tarp, or roof for additional shading.

Materials:

Fencing material is the second most important consideration. A four foot chainlink fence is the normal fencing utilized when erecting a fence around your home. A springer will on occasion learn to scale a four foot fence. It is recommended you erect a five foot fence. Regardless of the size run you decide to build, the fence should always contain a top bar. The fence is sturdy and can withstand a springers enthusiasm. You will not be sorry later. The difference in cost between a four and five foot fence is minimal.

Gravel:

Newcomers to the show ring are terribly disappointed when presenting their pride and joy and place lower than expected. The cause could be feet and belly discolored by mud, dirt or urine that has accumulated in and stained their coat from the exercise area. A graveled run will help in preventing this discoloration and help prevent "flat feet" that will sometimes occur when a dog is kept on concrete. Gravel recommended for a run is number 54 through number 57 gravel. Most quarries or mulch businesses will stock this gravel. ** Prior to installing the gravel, I recommend you cover the entire run area beginning one foot outside the fence posts, with an inexpensive "hog" wire. Hog wire (a stronger wire is recommended) will prevent your springer from digging through the gravel to find something they smell and will prevent them from digging under the fence.

Calculating gravel needs:

It is recommended you install landscape timbers or treated 4x4's on the inside of your run against the fencing. Installation of timbers will assist in containing the gravel within the run and allows you a gauge to calculate the number of Cubic Yards needed. The formula for calculating the cubic yards needed is as follows

1)  Multiply the length of the fence (20) times the width of the fence (8) to determine the square feet (160 sq.ft.).
2)  Multiply the height of the timber (A 4x4 inch timber is normally 3.5 inches) IN FEET. 3.5 inches divided by 12 inches (.29 feet).
3)  Multiply square feet (160) times the height of the timber (.29) to determine the cubic feet.
4)  Divide the answer by twenty-seven(27) to determine the Cubic Yards of gravel needed. 160x.29=46.4 divided by 27 (to convert to cubic yards equals 1.72 cubic yards of gravel).

Your supplier will normally discount five cubic yards and above. You will normally pay a delivery fee. (A word of caution) Five cubic yards of gravel will weigh approximately 8,000lbs. Be prepared for some backbreaking work should you decide to accomplish the task yourself. I personally built two runs and moved gravel a wheelbarrow load at a time. Of course, the cost for installation by someone else increases proportionally by the difficulty factor (I prefer to call this factor the sweat factor).

When completed, you may wish to staple or nail the fencing to your landscape timbers. Springers love to press against a fence to scratch or allow ANYONE to pet them. The bottom of the fencing will eventually be pushed outward allowing gravel to accumulate in the gaps. Installing a galvanized wire (1/2" hardware wire is great!) 24 inches tall between the timbers and fencing will stop the gravel from being thrown outside the run. Staple the bottom of the screen wire to the timbers and tie the top of the wire to your fencing with picture hanging wire. Ensure the sharp ends of the picture hanging wire point to the outside of the run. Puncture wounds do not look good in the ring and can possibly cause infection. Nylon ties can be utilized but your springer will consider nylon ties a chew toy tidbit. Using nylon line is a wasted effort.

Cleaning gravel:

A good "pooper scooper" is a must when scooping in gravel. The run should be scooped daily preventing smells. Should you not clean daily, the run should be cleaned at least four days a week. Once a week, spray the entire run with Clorox and water. You can spray for fleas and ticks at the same time. CAUTION: Do not allow your dog into the area until the wind has dried the top layer of gravel, especially if you have sprayed flea killer on the gravel. Fire ants gravitate to a run and must be dealt with. When applying a fire ant killer, water the poison well. Read Zippy's article on dog foods to decrease the smell in your run.

Additional suggestions:

The ideal run will be built with easy access from your kennel room, garage or home. Zippy designed our latest run around a door I installed in the garage. When she opens the door, the dogs go right into the run. No getting wet in the rain for Zippy and no chance of escape for the dogs A tacky drawing is shown below until I can find the time to generate a CAD drawing.

The drawing above shows a short (4') section of fencing on the west side running North and South. The section is marked with 4'. This section is a stand alone section with fencing attached. A post is located on the other side of the doorway (marked |  | ). This post is a stand alone post for closing the gate once your springer is in the run. With the gate closed to the standalone post, you may enter and exit the home without needing to open the gate. When you are ready for the springer to enter the home, the gate closes to the upper post on this drawing. When the gate is closed to the run side, your springer cannot jump onto the door since the gate blocks access to the door. Should you decide to install a 3 foot gate, you will naturally need to extend the fence containing the gate hinges by 1 foot ( upper west corner of drawing). Place the gate latch high enough on the gate to prevent a springer from "nosing" the latch open (some springers are very smart). An alternative to raising the latch is placing a lock or snap into the hole provided under the latch.

A few springers can and will jump a five foot fence. Should your springer be an escape artist, you may need to cover your run with roofing, fencing or install an electric wire around the top. Most dogs will not attempt an escape if they have a friend in the run with them. Toys or chewy things will occupy their time as well.

If you utilize your home as one wall for the run and this wall contains windows, you may need to place some sort of protection around the windows. A really smart dog will soon learn to watch the windows for movement and light. Once the dog learns to watch for movement, the dog will often jump against the window to gain your attention. Unless your windows contain double-pane glass, a dog may break and injure themselves. You should discourage this behavior immediately.

Good luck,
The unpaid laborer and Webmaster for LenLear ESS,

Len

So now you've done your homework, right? You've studied the breed standard, gone to some shows and watched the breed(s) you're interested in, and asked questions. You've talked to breeders, learned the strengths and weaknesses of each breed, and made your momentous decision. You are now ready to pick the puppy out of a Best in Show winning sire bred to a top producing dam (by this time you understand the terminology, right?),

but, for some reason those dumb breeders keep trying to give you a second or third pick, and you are just not willing to accept this. Don't they understand that you're looking for a Best in Show winner? Sure they do. But you just haven't paid the price yet.

The problem is that your expectations aren't in line with your experience. Would you put a brand new rider on a fast thoroughbred race horse? Would you put your 16 year old behind the wheel of a Grand Prix racer? Would you put a novice on the other end of the lead of a pick puppy? Of course you wouldn't.

A first time show puppy should be a dog with which you can learn and win, but pick puppies are reserved for those people who have a proven track record. They've demonstrated their staying power by going to matches and shows. They've learned to groom, they're probably pretty decent handlers, and they are obviously enthusiastic doggy people. They are the ones who will do justice to that pick puppy, the future Best in Show winner.

Most breeders have received letters or phone calls from novices, and some not so novice, requesting puppies that, from their descriptions, are perfect. Please note the following: Breeders will keep all perfect puppies for themselves. So far, there haven't been any, but unless you breed it, you ain't getting it.

Nothing is more heartbreaking to a breeder than to place the pick of a good litter with someone who, through inexperience or ignorance, ruins a lovely puppy by (1) not properly socializing or disciplining the pup, or (2) not keeping it in good condition, or (3) not keeping the agreement to show the puppy. We once sold a pick puppy to a novice who promptly moved away and could not be found. Three other puppies from that litter attained their championships. The pick could possibly have become a breed and group winning dog.

Breeders also consider a novice's financial ability to pay for, care for, and show the new little liability. Ours can be an expensive pastime, and presons with low incomes often do not have the financial resources to put the necessary funds into doing justice for a good quality dog. Most breeders are willing to offer payment terms or co-ownerships to reduce the purchase price, but the owner must be financially able to provide proper food and veterinary care, not to mention the very real expense of dog shows.

Dog show entry fees run about $15.00 per show. Add to that the automobile expenses, motels, and food, and you can sum up $100-$150.00 per weekend easily. During the show seasons, spring and fall in the Southeastern U.S., expenses can approach $1000.00 per month. Of course, if you buddy up with others, sharing transportation and motel costs, you can reduce that figure. Its been said that it costs about $100.00 per point to finish a dog. That is probably understated.

What about facilities? Do you live in a small apartment or condo, or do you have enough room to let an active sporting dog run? A lively animal in a small space won't make anyone happy.

Dogs need sufficient exercise to maintain the hard muscle tone and stamina necessary for the show ring. Traveling in crates and exposure to unfamiliar areas is stressful to dogs. It saps them of strength and durability. Like any other fine-tuned athlete, show dogs must be in shape to perform at their optimum levels. Lack of sufficient exercise results in dogs that move around the ring listlessly on the last oday of the circuit. If your dog is fed well and exercised properly, who is going to walk away with points?

Finally, a cooperative attitude is most important in a breeder-buyer relationship. Breeders look for novices who are eager to learn and will spend the time and pay the dues, to become knowledgeable, experienced dog people. The breeder must be fair and honest with the novice, but the novice must trust and have faith that the breeder is giving the best guidance and leadership.

Breeders regard their puppies as sort of "grandchildren" and take a definite interest in their development. A novice that meets all the requirements, is willing to communicate and keep the breeder informed, and share the successes and setbacks with the breeder is a rare treasure indeed.

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