One of the most frequently asked questions is "How do I pick the right puppy?" Since you are making a 12-15 year commitment, it is important to get the right one. The question, however, should be "How do I pick the right LITTER?" Picking the right litter and the right breeder is more important that picking the right pup.

There are three kinds of breeders. The "Commercial Breeder" (or puppy mill) try to breed as many puppies as possible, as often as possible, to make as much money as possible. There is no knowledge or concern of pedigree or lineage or inherited problems. It is purely a commercial venture and puppies are sold in litters to wholesalers and pet shops as early as 4 or 5 weeks. We have all heard the horror stories of mid-west puppy mills.

The "Backyard Breeder" simply breeds their own female to a convenient male, maybe Freckles down the block. They are not necessarily "in it for the money" and often only breed one or two litters to let the children experience the wonder of birth or because a friend wants a pup from their female. Again, there is no pedigree or background knowledge and it is a game of chance as far as inherited diseases and defects are concerned. Usually there is no pre-natal care or proper care of the litter. The "mama dog" does it all.

The "Show Breeder" is trying to breed the best English Springer Spaniel possible. Of course this is done for purely selfish reasons. They want to win in the show ring. The pedigree is studied in depth, the female is sent to the stud dog deemed most likely to correct in the puppies any shortcomings of the female. The dam and the stud are checked prior to breeding for genetic problems such as hip dysplasia and retinal dysplasia and certification is exchanged. The dam is feed the best food and given top notch veterinary care during the gestation period and the litter is carefully watched over and cared for and any smaller puppies are supplemented or given extra feedings.

So, all this having been said, first you must "pick your litter". Don’t buy a cute little puppy on impulse without asking the right questions. Pups in pet shops are almost always from commercial breeders. Often the AKC registration papers offered with the dog, do not belong to that particular dog. I was once in a pet shop and saw an English Springer Spaniel puppy about 10 weeks old being sold as a Cocker Spaniel. When I questioned the manager, I was told that it definitely was a cocker and he has the AKC papers to prove it.

Whoever purchased the "cocker" will certainly be surprised when the supposed 25 pound dog grows up to be 40 or 50 pounds.

Most backyard breeders advertise their litters in the paper. Now this gets tricky because sometimes show breeders will also advertise pet quality pups in the paper. However, usually a few questions will enable you to tell which kind of breeder you are talking to. I suggest asking "Why was this litter bred?" The answer will tell you volumes. "Why did you breed to this particular stud?" will also help you discern between a show breeder and a backyard breeder.

Can you get a "good" puppy from a backyard breeder? Absolutely! But it is a crap shoot as far as inherited defects and diseases are concerned. Can you get a "bad" puppy from a show breeder? Absolutely! But your chances of avoiding the heartbreak of hip dysplasia, retinal dysplasia and epilepsy are greatly improved.

OK, you have "picked your litter" and are going to pick your puppy. If you are going to see a litter of backyard bred puppies there are several things you need to know. First you want to see and be able to pet the mom. Sometimes the stud is there too. He should also be very friendly and not "hyper". If either of the parents are described as "protective", a warning bell should go off in your head. Ask first if either of the parents of the litter has ever shown aggression or has bitten. Ask if the litter has been checked by a veterinarian. (There are some heart problems that are not obvious but can be tragic.) Also check the puppy for a bump on it’s belly button. This could be a hernia and be costly to repaid. Look for shiny coats and bright, not runny, eyes. Ask if the puppies have been wormed for round worms and if they have had their first TWO sets of shots. Do not take a puppy from a litter before NINE (not six) weeks of age. Ask how old the sire and dam are. Most, not all, genetic defects surface by three years old. Springers should not be used for breeding before the age of three years.

It has been proven in studies that puppies taken from the litter too early do not develop the proper understanding of pack order. This is important because you are going to be "Leader of the Pack" for this puppy.

You have established that this litter is healthy and has been reasonably well taken care of, what next? You should forget about color of markings. Look for the puppy that is NOT the most outgoing or dominant in the litter. A too shy, hang-back puppy could develop into a "fear bitter" or be so soft in temperament as it will be hard to train. On the other hand, the bold, aggressive pup will be a handful and will require discipline and structure to ensure that a dominant aggressive situation does not develop.

OK, you have picked my sweet, middle of the road puppy and you are picking him up at 9 weeks of age, what do you expect from the backyard breeder? The very minimum you should receive when you pick up your pup is (1) the AKC registration slip. You will select a name for your puppy and submit this form to AKC, with a fee, to register the pup in your name. (2) A record from a veterinarian indicating what shots the pup has and when the puppy was wormed. (3) Three days supply of the puppy food the pup is used to eating. Abrupt changes of food can upset small stomachs.

But what if I decide to buy a pet quality puppy from a show bred litter? This changes things a bit. The choice of what puppy you will be able to get is far more restricted. The show breeder is trying to breed the best English Springer Spaniel possible. So what does that mean to you?

Show breeders go through a series of evaluations and elimination’s with the litter. The first is the litter is taken to a VETINARY OPTHAMOLOGIST, not just a regular vet, at about 7 or 8 weeks of age. The entire litter is examined for any inherited eye defects. Retinal dysplasia and juvenile cataracts are just a few of the diseased eliminated at this screening. The Veterinary Opthamoligist will provide the breeder with a paper for each pup indicating any abnormalities or stating the pup is NORMAL.

The breeder then "grades the litter". This means a determination is made as to which puppies, if any, are show prospects. The puppies deemed as show prospects will only be placed in show homes. This means that you will be required to sign a contract to agree to show the pup to the completion of it’s Championship.

The pet quality puppies in the litter will be sold to homes that are simply looking for a companion dog. But most reputable show breeders require that pet quality pups be spayed or neutered by 6 months of age. The thinking is, if a puppy is not "correct enough" to be shown then it should not be bred and reproduce it’s incorrect traits.

There is one thing you should know. Most show breeders have a "worse first" policy. This means that the pups that are obviously not going to be show prospects will be released for sale first. It brings a whole new meaning to "first pick". Often "borderline" pups, those who might or might not be show prosepects will be held back to see how they develop and the decision on whether the pup is to be placed as pet or show will be reserved until the pup is older. Also, even pups who are graded as "show prospects" may be sold as pets if a show home does not come along. Bottom line is do not be afraid of an "older" pup that is being placed by a show breeder. It is not a runt or a reject but quite the contrary. The older the pup is the more the breeder can tell about it’s temperament and confirmation. This benefits you too, provided the pup has been properly socialized.

Show breeders will know the temperament of their pups. They have spent many hours watching the litter. Listen to their input and trust their judgment as to which puppy is correct for you and your situation. Cuteness is impressive now, but when the dog is grown, the other qualities are going to be more important.

Ask the show breeder if there is any health problems in the litter? Ask about the parent’s temperament and genetic screenings. They both should have been checked for hip dysplasia and have had annual eye exams. The breeder will have proof of both. Ask about epilepsy in the line. Ask about dominance aggressiveness in the line. Look at other dogs the breeder has. Not just the mother but any other relatives. Are they friendly and out going without being aggressive or "hyper active"? Most show breeders will not have the sire of the litter on the property. Show breeders may have sent the female across the county to be bred.

What should I expect to receive from the show breeder? Of course you should receive the basic information discussed above, AKC registration and shot record, but you should also receive a record of the pup’s eye exam, a three or four generation pedigree, a sales agreement that spells out your responsibilities and theirs, complete instructions and advice on taking care of your puppy and possibly information on flea control, housebreaking , training and grooming. Most show breeders will take their puppies back anytime, anywhere, if the situation with you does not work out . But have an understanding up front to eliminate any misunderstanding later.

You should also expect to receive support and guidance from your breeder in the area’s of any advanced training or competition you might want to participate in with your dog - such as obedience, agility, tracking, or hunting.

Your show breeder should be your first call when you have any questions about the care or training of your pup. Most reputable show breeders are interested in ALL their puppies, not just the show winners.

Zippy Cooper

LenLear Springers