Dennis' Whiskey Corner
Serving Information and Reviews to the Curious Drinker Since 1997.
Corn Whiskey
(Bourbon / Tennessee / American)
- disclaimer -Americans lack a generic term for the family of whiskeys made from a corn base. I use the term "corn whiskey" although this in itself refers only to corn based whiskey that does not meet the legal definition for "Bourbon" or "Tennessee" whiskey. I apologize for the confusion, but given the traditional vocabularies it cannot be avoided.
The most popular variety of corn whiskey is Bourbon whiskey, pronounced buR-Bun rather than the French BUrr-bOnn. (For you Europeans the American term corn means maize.) Bourbon must be straight whiskey with corn comprising between 51% and 79% of the mash grains (the remander usually being barley and rye), and must be made in the U.S. to be labeled Bourbon in the United States. Aging varies, but by U.S. law must be done in new barrels. The term sour-mash refers to the process of employing leftover liquid from a primary distillation to a subsequent mash for quality control. By tradition almost all Bourbon is made this way, whether it appears on the label or not, even though with modern distilling methods there is little difference between the final products of the sweet-mash and sour-mash methods. Some premier brands of Bourbon called single barrel and small batch are by now in most bars and liquor stores, but in my humble opinion (as much as I do enjoy a glass of Bourbon or Tennessee whiskey now and then) corn whiskey in new barrels will never compare with barley whiskey in aged barrels. Although Bourbon is sometimes called American whiskey, really there is no such thing as American whiskey, rather there are many American whiskeys, and the best among these are straight whiskeys (Bourbon, Tennessee, & rye). Besides, whiskey similar to Bourbon can be made elsewhere. The labeling of American whiskeys can be very complicated, and for this I refer the reader to two articles: The Baffling World of Bourbon and So What Is Bourbon Exactly?.
The unofficial Bourbon Capital of the World is Bardstown, Kentucky, the home of Heaven Hill, Jim Beam, Maker's Mark, and Kentucky Gentleman. It is in Nelson rather than Bourbon County though. (Currently there are no licensed distilleries in Bourbon County.) Bardstown hosts the Kentucky Bourbon Festival every September. Bardstown is near the oldest Cistercian Abbey in the U.S., Gethsemani, where the monks make Bourbon fudge. The Old Kentucky Turnpike will take you from these attractions to Abraham Lincoln Birthplace NHS.
Bourbon
For everything you ever wanted to know about this whiskey, try Straight Bourbon.
Maker's Mark
When I drink Bourbon whiskey clear, I drink this one. Light yet with a full smell, smooth and a little tangy and pleasing. Soft and clean and strong, has an even taste, perhaps a bit sweet.The distillers use wheat in the non-corn portion of the mash
rather than rye. Even though I generally prefer
straight rye whiskey
to Bourbon, I am quite pleased with this non-rye Bourbon. Made in batches
of 19 or fewer barrels at a time, Maker's Mark is a great value at ±
$20 per fifth* compared to the moderately superior single-barrel
Bourbons that sell in the $30-$40+ range. You may note that Maker's Mark
is labeled as Whisky rather than Whiskey. The standard American
spelling is w-h-i-s-k-e-y but our "free press" traditions allow
individual distillers to use either spelling.
· Suggest reading: Psalm 22/23
(Maker's Mark Homepage)
Booker's
One of Fortune Brands' Small Batch Bourbon Collection, this Bourbon has the distinction of being unfiltered, perhaps the only such Bourbon commercially available. Deep almost brown color. It is also bottled uncut, so it is sold at 120+ proof. Unfortunately my first taste was served in a brandy snifter--this is not a proper glass for whiskey.† Upon further investigation I am proud to offer a short review based on my 126.6° bottle:Uisgebeatha in America. An epic battle of strength and delicacy. The high
proof drives the flavor home. Heavy, flowing, liquid nostalgia that first
reminds one of the good times then evaporate! leaving an exquisite but hollow
aftertaste. Drink more to remember and forget more. The dream before us
just! not in reach. Corn--that pedestrian grain--never shined so bright.
· Suggest reading: Laughing Corn
A. H. Hirsch
If you are looking for pot-still Bourbon aged between 16-20 years, this may be your only stop. At least some, if not all, of the whiskey bottled under this label was distilled in the now-closed Michter's distillery (see my Rye Whiskey page). This is a high rye content Bourbon containing 50% corn, 38% rye, and 12% malted barley. A. H. Hirsch 16-years-old is an excellent product. Some opinion holds that Bourbon does not age well after 8 years or so; perhaps the pot-still process ages better than the column-still method. It displays a well developed oaky taste, bold & beautiful, deep in color, big taste that drops slightly toward the end. Truly a wonderful Bourbon, but for upwards $35 a fifth it ought to be.· Suggest reading: The Banished Spirit's Song
Knob Creek
Also one of Fortune Brands' Small Batch Bourbon Collection. Excellent whiskey. Full color, light smell. Gently tangy as it hugs the palate and glosses the tongue. It has no bitterness, although it tingles some, but with no roughness. Knob Creek exhibits full flavor. The pleasure is almost nostalgic, like an old man's memories of youth.· Suggest reading: Young and Old
Woodford Reserve
This premium brand of Bourbon made by the Brown-Forman Cº is one of the few American whiskeys that uses the pot-still method of distilling, the traditional Irish and Scotch method. The distillery only recently started using the pot still, so none of this Bourbon is available yet. Currently bottles of Woodford Reserve contain the contents of select barrels from a different distillery. Its got bite--strong, nothing displeasing, mild spice; comes on quickly, then tappers off evenly. Woodford Reserve Information· Suggest reading: October's Bright Blue Weather
Heaven Hill
This Bourbon maker also imports Tyrconnell and Kilbeggan; obviously the company appreciates quality. Not a fine fine Bourbon, this is a great mixer and occasional neat whiskey. Fifths in the Atlanta area sell for only about eight dollars, a fine value. My cabinet may always have a space for this one. Here are a few thoughts on the 90° variety:Spicy. This is a sad-song bourbon, uncommonly common. First dulls then
fires a broken heart. Sing the Blues before playing Jazz once again. Does
this one give or does it take away? It all depends on when you ask.
· Suggest reading: The Clod and the Pebble
Evan Williams
A more prestigious label from Heaven Hill. Named after a 18th century American distiller. A fine bourbon; no flaws, but also no particular thrills.· Suggest reading: Rock Me to Sleep
Jim Beam
My former mixing and occasionally neat Bourbon. Jim Beam is owned by Fortune Brands, Inc. After tasting far and wide I now stay clear of this product; it just does not live up to its reputation and price.· Suggest reading: Ozymandias
(Jim Beam Homepage)
Rebel Yell
This Bourbon does not quite live up to its name. It comes on like the boys in gray, but does not keep up the fight. If you enjoy a whiskey that is big on taste, but light on aftertaste, sample this one for yourself.· Suggest reading: To an Athlete Dying Young
Wild Turkey
A distinctive name that fits this distinctive Bourbon. A drop of the great outdoors in a bottle. A great whiskey. Owned by Pernod Ricard.(Wild Turkey Homepage)
· Suggest reading: The Streams
Old Charter
A fine, even-keeled 8 year old 80° bourbon with a strong flavor on the palate. It is smooth, almost sweet, with no sharp peak or aftertaste. Owned by United Distillers. Also comes in a variety of other ages and proofs.· Suggest reading: Truth
Tennessee
George Dickel
The superior brand of Tennessee whiskey. My first experience with Mr. Dickel, was certainly the best--Nº12 Finest Quality Sippin' Whisky, 90°. Like all it's varieties, Nº12 is distilled, chilled, then filtered through maple charcoal. The story goes that Mr. Dickel noticed that his winter whiskey was smoother than his summer batches. He figured out that cold whiskey filters better, so he began to make it only in the winter. Today the distillery chills the whiskey mechanically, so it can operate year round. The present distillery is located at a superb water source, at the site of the original facility, which was destroyed when Tennessee became a dry state shortly before national Prohibition. I took a trip to the distillery, small friendly staff, and you can get upclose and personal to the distillery. No samples though, but one is welcome to join the George Dickel Water Conservation Society, I did. While there I bought a bottle of 10 Year Old Special Barrel Reserve, but it did not live up to expectations. I taste too much of the raw beer in that variety--perhaps I had a bad batch. George Dickel is owned by Guinness Stout's United Distillers.My review of Nº12 is in slow progress; some things should not be
rushed. Will add one for Nº8 after I try it.
· Suggest reading: When the Frost is on the Punkin
(George Dickel Homepage)
Jack Daniel's
Too expensive to mix. Not good enough to drink straight. Like Dickel, Jack Daniel's is called Tennessee whiskey because it does not quite comply with federal requirements to be labeled Bourbon, something of which I am sure Mr. Daniel is quite proud. The prime difference between Bourbon and Tennessee is maple charcoal filtering. The distillery is currently owned by Brown-Forman Cº. I am somewhat fond of a new premium product of Mr. Daniel's called Gentleman Jack Rare Tennessee Whiskey. The following notes are based on Gentleman Jack: Hits the middle of the tongue and roof of the mouth the most. Light amber
color, hint of golden-orange. Good for when you are happy and want to stay
that way. Perhaps too sweet, perhaps even childishly emotional. Having
experienced the subtleties of Irish and the strengths of rye, Jack Daniel's is
obvious and innocent. Even though I cannot regain innocence, how can I
condemn it? Enjoy this one while you still can.
· Suggest reading: The Lamb
(Jack Daniel's Homepage)
Other Corn Whiskeys
Conecuh Ridge
This "whole grain" whiskey may or may not be burbon—as I have not figured out if it is corn-based or not (but that is a likely guess). Made in Alabama, this whiskey claims to be a legal version of the legendary white lightning made by Clyde May. Supposedly even the lawmen fighting moonshiners had to admit it was good stuff. One day I hope to try this label.(Conecuh Ridge Homepage)
Bush Pilot's
Thirteen-year-old 100% corn whiskey bottled by Robert Denton & Company, Ltd. If you are looking for this whiskey—good luck! This has not been made since 1997, and was only bottled a year or so before that. The story goes that shortly after Mr. Denton started to bottle his little whiskey, Anheuser-Busch corporation started action claiming trademark violation. Now I figure even a blind man could tell the difference between a bottle of corn whiskey and a can of cheap beer, but Anheuser-Busch thought otherwise. Mr. Denton figured it was not worth the fight, so he sold all of his existing stocks of Bush Pilot's and moved on to other business pastures.· Suggest reading: To an Athlete Dying Young
Early Times
I bought a quart to try as a mixer. Bold and rugged. Seemed rough at first taste. Began to notice a different kind of appeal after a while. Deep color. This brand does not claim to be Bourbon, rather it goes by the name Kentucky Whiskey. The only difference I could notice is on the label: like fine Irish and Scotch whiskeys Early Times is aged in used cooperage. However, I have read that Early Times does make a whiskey that complies with the Bourbon definition, but it is sold outside the United States. Like Jack Daniel's, Early Times is owned by Brown-Forman.· Suggest reading: Blue-tail Fly
(Early Times Homepage)
Shine On Georgia Moon
This clear white liquor does not claim to be anything but corn whiskey. I have bought three mason jar fifths of this and given them away as gifts, and now wish I had not. Unless you try this raw product you will never quite appreciate the art of distilling and aging Bourbon. The only use I have for the rest of my jar is as a cleaning agent. It claims to be less than 30 days old.Moonshine
Illegal whiskey or other liquor. Term comes from the practice of making or transporting it at night. Also called Corn Liquor, White Liquor, White Lightning, and dozens of other aliases. My advice is to stay away, but if you chose not to listen to me, read on...Moonshine is not a brand name, this is tradition of independence and bravery. Homemade "hooch" that evades the tax-man, and is something fun to do with surplus grain from the farm. Beware though, freedom from government tribute also means no government controls. The one rule of moonshine is Know Thy Distiller. Unless you have obtained your moonshine from an old-timer or a hobbyist who likes to make corn whiskey for fun and (mostly) private use, you are probably not really drinking whiskey. Most shine since Prohibition is distilled from a fermented sugar mash, perhaps with some corn, made by a large and sometimes mean illegal operation. Many big moonshiners do not drink what they distill, and just ship it off to others. On the other hand, I am sure there are some who take pride in their work. Historical dangers of moonshine (besides arrest) include the presence of methanol (a.k.a. wood alcohol) and lead-salts (from lead solder sometimes used in the construction of the still). Both of these are poisonous: methanol acts in a few hours and can cause blindness or death; lead builds up slowly in your body and causes many medical problems. Although I cannot vouch for this method (as I have never had illegal liquor myself), I have heard that good moonshine burns blue, bad shine burns yellow. I am not sure if this checks for methanol or lead or both. Naturally be very careful of a lit match near the stuff. However, most big stills today (at least the ones that the Law has found) are stainless steel jobs that, while not sanitary by George Dickel standards, are probably cleaner than the pre-Civil War legal farm stills.
Moonshining is a tax crime in the United States. The current system of liquor taxes began only after the Civil War. For all but a few years before that, Americans were free to distill their own whiskey. Many farmers found they could only make a living by converting their corn or rye to liquor, because it cost much less to transport it and was easier to find a buyer. Current federal and state taxes on a bottle of legal liquor is usually between 40%-60% of the retail price--many times the tax on other luxury consumables, like candy. It is little wonder that there is such a large market for tax-free whiskey.
After many readers requested information about home-distilling I decided to write to the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, and Firearms (ATF) asking how one can legally make whiskey for personal use. I figured that it required extensive red-tape and paying taxes on the production. I discovered that it is illegal to make liquor at home under any circumstances:
26 U.S.C. 5178(a)(1)(B): No distilled spirits plant for the production of distilled spirits shall be located in any dwelling house, in any shed, yard, or inclosure connected with any dwelling house, or on board any vessel or boat, or on premises where beer or wine is made or produced, or liquors of any description are retailed, or on premises where any other business is carried on (except when authorized under subsection (b)).Very similar language can be found in the regulations under 27 CFR 19.131. This regulation can be accessed through ATF's Web Site. Consider writing your congressman and senators to reduce the tax burden on liquor and to establish reasonable guidelines for personal-use distilling. It is legal in some parts of the world, such as New Zealand.
In case you would like to know how to make corn whiskey [not that you would actually do it] try reading a book by Joseph Earl Dabney called Mountain Spirits (Asheville: Bright Mountain Books, 1974, ISBN: 0914875027). It provides a history of moonshiners and homemade whiskey, how it is made, and is available on-line at the Amazon.com Bookstore. The University of North Carolina also has an excellent Moonshine page.
Notes
* Liquor Quantities
Liquor in the United States is usually sold in metric quantities that approximate the traditional volumes of the American version of the Imperial System. I use the old names but refer to the new volumes:- Fifth means 750 ml (1/5 gallon = 757 ml)
- Quart means 1000 ml (1 quart = 947 ml)
- Half Gallon means 1750 ml (1/2 gallon = 1893 ml)