Dennis' Whiskey Corner
Serving Information and Reviews to the Curious Drinker Since 1997.
Irish Whiskey
- disclaimer -Uisce Beatha na Héirinn is made from barley grain and malt and is aged in used barrels. Distillers prefer not to use new oak because they think it imparts a rough taste to the whiskey. They carefully select the barrel for its type of oak and previous contents. The previous contents will affect the taste and distillers want to use the "right" taste for their whiskeys. Traditionally the barrels held either Bourbon or sherry. Some Scotch and Irish whiskey distillers are now experimenting with other barrels--such as port or even rum--for aging or partial aging.
My preference for Irish whiskey does not come from an affinity with my Irish heritage. Nor does it stem from the knowledge that whiskey was probably invented in Ireland (pizza may have come from Italy, but it was perfected in Chicago). Irish whiskey's superiority comes from its quality. Generally, Irish whiskeys are made with excellent grain and water and triple distilled. Saddly, though the Irish were long resistant to abandoning traditional distilling methods, blending and the patent still have become the norm. At least when the do blend they blended well. From my experience of other whiskeys, blending is usually employed to make inferior products consistently mediocre. Also I just plain like the taste of barley whiskey over rye or corn. The peat taste of Scotch puts that variety of whisky at a distinct disadvantage on my shelf.
Several factors led to the poor status of Irish whiskey in the American market. In the 1870s Irish whiskey was second only to rum in the world market following the destruction of French brandy production by blight. But soon unauthorized blending of Irish whiskey with other spirits by shady American merchants became common. During Prohibition bootleggers often labeled homemade whiskey "Irish" to help it sell. The bad taste it left in the mouth soured many customer's memories, and hurt sales both before and after the 20's. The upheavals that led to Irish independence hurt production and distribution; the British Commonwealth leveled an embargo on Irish goods. Finally, Americans began what I consider to be a distasteful love affair with Scotch when our G.I.s were stationed in Britain during the Second World War. There is hope in sight, though: since peat is not a renewable resource, someday there will be no more Scotch whisky.
One of Irish whiskey's marketing "problems" had been its expense, although the cost of Bourbon and Scotch have risen recently, so the price difference has all but disappeared. Consider, though, the extra cost in making Irish. Scotch whisky is usually distilled twice compared to tripled-distilled Irish whiskeys; many Bourbons are only distilled once. Although there are many blatently shoddy Bourbons and Scotches, even the most mondane of Irish is still pretty good. Even if it does carries a higher price than Early Times or Cutty Sark, I would rather drink one bottle of Tyrconnell than two bottles of those others.
For more information try
Classic Whiskey.
Or the
Irish Whiskey Home Page.
Also try the
Irish Whiskey vs. Scotch Comparison Page.
Midleton
A pure ray of heaven's light filling a glass--but first some background:My wife and I walked into a pub called Limerick Junction in Atlanta for a pint of stout. Up behind the bar I noticed a box with Midleton printed on it, and asked if it was there for show. To my surprise I was shown a mostly full bottle inside. Named after the home of Irish Distillers Ltd.'s principal distillery near Cork, Midleton is supposed to be the premier Irish Whiskey. Each bottle is signed by the distiller and carries its own serial number; the one I sampled is #28361, 1994. Rather expensive. We saw it in Ireland, but I did not want to get used to something that I could not obtain in the States, so I did not try it. One of my readers informed me that it is available in at least a few places in here, and at last I found one of them.
A pure ray of heaven's light. The smell rose light, sweet, and deep
from the glass. Complex amber color. Rarely does a whiskey announce its
presence so successfully. The first taste massages the mouth with its
caressing flavor. After a second sip I felt the barley being married to
my taste buds. Ultimately satisfying--nothing wrong--everything right.
· Suggest reading: 'Hy-Brasail'--The Isle of the Blest
Tyrconnell
This one is relatively new on the American market. It is produced by the Cooley Distillery in County Westmeath (or maybe Co. Louth), Ireland, and is distributed in the United States by Heaven Hill. After two glasses* it became my favorite (affordable) "quiet evening" whiskey. It is a single malt only double-distilled, unusual for an Irish product, but I like it. I will say that after drinking it a while its smoothness seems a little too flat. I usually switch back to Jameson for a change of pace. Tyrconnell is named after a horse that won the 1876 Queen Victoria Plate at 100 to 1 odds. In the Atlanta area it costs about $18 to $20 a fifth.† Three thumbs up.· Suggest reading: Kubla Khan
(Tyrconnell Homepage)
Jameson
When I toured the Whiskey Heritage Center of Irish Distillers Ltd. ‡ in Midleton, County Cork, I became an licensed whiskey taster. Irish Distillers owns most of the brands sold overseas. I preferred Jameson over Bushmills, Paddy, and John Powers--it was not an easy decision though. Jameson also has premier brands, but I only sampled its standard label. I picked up a bottle of Jameson's 12 year-old Distillery Reserve. I was quite dismayed to discover that it was only a 700 ml bottle rather than a fifth. I will have to drink it slowly, since one can only buy it at the distillery. One other premium brand called Jameson 1780 is much like the regular Jameson, only more so.· Suggest reading: To a Young Beauty
Bushmills
This is the only Irish Distillers label not made in Cork. It is still made in Country Antrim (part of British-rule Ireland) as it has been since 1608, making it the oldest licensed distillery in the world. This claim to fame was not enough to make it my favorite, but it is a close third. Today part of the Bushmills blended labels comes from the Midleton distillery. I very much enjoy my Bushmills Single Malt (aged 10 years), a premium variety. Bushmills Malt 16 Years Old is partially aged in port pipes; I shall add a review on this one after I get a chance to sample it; it is quite expensive. Bushmills is marketed in the States by Brown-Forman Cº.· Suggest reading: The Foray of Con O'Donnell
(Bushmills Homepage)
Kilbeggan
Produced by the same company as Tyrconnell and new to the States. Heaven Hill, an independent Kentucky distiller, has the U.S. distribution contract. The brand was originally made by John Locke which closed its distillery in 1953. If Tyrconnell is a fine thoroughbred then Kilbeggan is a typically good work-horse whiskey, the kind you drink with the men after carrying hod all day.· Suggest reading: Finnegan's Wake
(Kilbeggan Homepage)
John Powers
This one has more of a grain rather than a malt taste. The biggest seller in Ireland. Recently reïntroduced to the States after a brief introduction about five years ago. Not too expensive, this is my prefered "noisy evening" whiskey--poker night etc.· Suggest reading: Whiskey in the Jar
Paddy
I have not seen this one on the American market yet. It is very popular in southern Ireland, such as in Cork. My wife had the good sense to bring a bottle back on our recent trip to Ireland. Loads of clean flavor, satisfying finish. A standard Irish whiskey that offers some simple adventure. Those in Ireland should count their blessings.· Suggest reading: Aileen the Huntress
Tullamore Dew
Another good basic whiskey from Irish Distillers. Recently brought back to the American market; before that I bought a bottle in the Virgin Islands. Sorry, I have not sampled it recently enough to write a review. It's famous slogan is: Give Every Man His Dew.· Suggest reading: A Drinking Song
Knappogue Castle
1951 Vintage Knappogue Castle Irish Whiskey. As traditional as Irish Whiskey gets. Pot stilled three times, aged 36 years in sherry casks. That's right, 36 years. After the B. Daly distillery closed its doors, much of its stock languished in barrels on the shelves. Some was purchased and bottled in 1987, and has long last made it to this side of the Atlantic. Not sold in my area, so this is just a reading whiskey for now. Personally I am skeptical that the extra 20 years in the barrel did the whiskey much good, but I will give it a fair try if I get the chance. It is sold in New York and probably other places. Contact Great Spirits (713) 750-0033 to find a local retailer.Inishowen/Connemara
Peated Irish whiskeys. See my Non-Scotch section of my Scotch Whisky page.Poteen (Knockeen Hills)
Poteen (sounds like put-cheen) is the Irish version of moonshine, traditionally made with barley during the Christmas season. Occasionally it is used by old-timers for livestock medicinal purposes. Variant spellings include poitín and potcheen. I have been given the opportunity to sample a drop or two of the not-very-legal mountain dew. The first shot was pleasing enough, but subsequent shots had a bitter aftertaste. It did mix well with club soda, though. I presume every unlicensed distiller's product is a little different. I tastes little like aged whiskey, and not much like neutral spirits (e.g. vodka).There is one legal brand, however, Knockeen Hills. The distiller asserts
it is Ireland's only triple-distilled version, and is recognised internationally
as the proper stuff. I have not had the personal pleasure of sampling it, though.
It comes in three strengths ranging from 120° (60% alcohol) to 180°,
all winning medals at the International Wine & Spirit Competition. I have not
noticed it for sale where I live, but the website does list several distributers
in the United States.
(Knockeen Hills Homepage)
Non-Irish Irish
Hazelburn
The Springbank Distillery of Campbelton, Scotland, in producing a new un-peated whiskey called Hazelburn Whisky. Like traditional Irish, this product is triple-distilled. No word on availability. Never tried or seen it.Auchentoshan
This Lowland single malt Scotch is triple-distilled and, supposedly, very light on peat.
Notes
* Whiskey Glasses
In my not-so-humble opinion whiskey should be served in a clear and un-tinted glass, no taller than it is wide, of simple shape (preferably cuboid or cylindrical), with a thick base. Any distiller's name or logo should be tolerated (with reservations) only if it is etched into the glass rather than painted onto it.
† Liquor Quantities
Liquor in the United States is usually sold in metric quantities that approximate the traditional volumes of the American version of the Imperial System. I use the old names but refer to the new volumes:- Fifth means 750 ml (1/5 gallon = 757 ml)
- Quart means 1000 ml (1 quart = 947 ml)
- Half Gallon means 1750 ml (1/2 gallon = 1893 ml)