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This fairing was made from 1/4" zotefoam and some aluminum stock brazed togther using a propane torch.
The wheel discs were made from zotefoam in 1/4" and 1/2" thicknesses and with contact cement and hook and loop fabric (Velcro).

I started making the hinge at the front of the fairing:
 
 

This was made easy because I purchased the "front tube option" to my Greenspeed GTO.  I  highly recommend this if you want to add bodywork to your Greenspeed trike.  It is a tube welded under the main boom.  The tube has a clamp for the extensible fairing mount tube.

The hinge is formed from approximately 16 gauge aluminum sheet.  I bent a small box into the left and right upper corners and brazed them up to add rigidity.
All the fasteners are M5 stainless steel socket head screws.

The hinge pins are some plastic bushings I whittled out with an "Exacto" knife.  The centers are drilled and tapped to M5.  They want to vibrate off so I added M5 nuts and loctited them.  I cut out a thin piece of polyethylene to make a thrust washer between the inner and outer parts of the hinge brackets.

I made simple joints between the  side channels and the flat stock using "plug welds."  At least that is waht they would be called if you made them  by welding.  the flat stock has a hole drilled in it and the brazing material filles the hole.  I also fillet brazed aroung the outside.

The Zotefoam fits nicely into the 1/4' channel on the sides.  I use clear packing tape to keep the faom from creeping out due to road vibration.  Cutting the foam and getting it to look nice is by far the most dificult part of this job.
 

There are little "ailerons" for adjusting the trailing edge of the fairing.

 I had to drill a hole in the derailer mast for a strut stop.
 

More little polyethylene washers are between the strut legs.

Here is how the wheel discs are made:
 
 

The inner disc is cut out to clear the brake caliper not for assembly over the disc.  I would have cut a smaller hole and remmoved the brake discs it there was more clearance betweent the caliper and the spokes.

The Velcro doesn't stick quite as hard as I would like so I used the contact cement on the mating surfaces.

I was fast and sloppy with this whole attempt so the discs are slightly concave (photo doesn't capture well).  For better aero properties one should take more care with the foam spacers.
 

Here is how I manage to access the schrader valve:
 
 

My apologies for the photo quality.  I shot these with a flash at night, then touched up the images.  I couldn't see much of anything in the viewfinder.