At the outset, I want to announce that hiking the Grand Canyon is not all “peaches and cream.” Take my word for it. I’ve had numerous experiences in the Canyon, and I’ve made it a point to learn from all of them. One matter I would place a great deal of accent upon is that you never try to hike the Canyon on motivation only. I have never been guilty of this stunt, yet many have and many others will be. Hiking the Canyon on motivation only will be your first serious mistake. Like many others, you may have to be helicoptered out. And that could be rather costly and embarrassing, particularly when you try to explain your first Canyon encounter to your friends.
It is vital to prepare the mind—motivation. That’s where it all begins. But preparing the mind only will not take you into and out of the Canyon. For if the mind is amply prepared but the body is ignored, an agonizing physical and emotional struggle will raise its ugly head just around the next bend. In this message, I hope to offer some helpful advice as you make preparations for one of your greatest and fondest experiences. The information contained in this feature is drawn from this author’s own excursions into the Canyon. So hang on and listen up.
Making Reservations
If you’re interested in hiking the major trails and staying overnight on the floor of the Canyon, near the great Colorado River, you’ll need to make reservations 12-18 months in advance. You may opt to tent out at the Bright Angel Campground or arrange for cabin facilities at Phantom Ranch. April 15 through June 30, and September 15 through October 30 are perhaps the best times to hike the Canyon. You may also reserve meals at the Cantina, for eating adequately is indispensable if you’re going to make it out. You can cancel your reservations up to 48 hours in advance of your hike, with a full refund. For Phantom Ranch reservations, call: 1-303-297-2757. For Campsite reservations, write: Grand Canyon National Park, Backcountry Office, P.O. Box 129, Grand Canyon, Arizona 86023-0129. Fax: (520) 638-2115.
The Principal Trails To Phantom Ranch
There are many trails throughout the Canyon, some of which are offshoots of or connect to the main trails. There are three principal trails to Phantom Ranch: The Bright Angel Trail (10.5 miles), the South Kaibab Trail (7.5 miles), and the North Kaibab Trail (14 miles). The Bright Angel trailhead is located a few hundred feet west of Bright Angel Lodge, near the mule corral. There are a number of water stops on this trail, but none beyond Indian Gardens (4.6 miles down), so you’ll need to fill your water jugs at Indian Gardens for your final trek.
There are two toilet stops on the South Kaibab Trail, but zero water and no shade. This means you’ll need to carry at least 3 quarts of water, especially if you’re ascending the trail. The trailhead is located at Yaki Point, a few miles east of Grand Canyon Village. Shuttle Buses are available. The entire trail is steep. It is not recommended that you exit the Canyon on this trail. I did, for the first time, in September, 1999, and it was tough. I left at 5:30 a.m. and reached the top 5 hours later.
In 1993, I descended this trail and hiked out on the Bright Angel Trail—the same day. I was in excellent physical condition, yet this was the most difficult physical experience I had ever encountered. I advise you to never consider hiking to the floor and back the same day, or from rim to rim. A few have died in the process. Three family members and I hiked from rim-to-rim in the Summer of 2000, but we stayed overnight at Phantom Ranch at the end of the first day before ascending the 14-mile North Kaibab Tail.
Scorpions And Showers Don’t Mix!
When we reached Phantom Ranch, the first thing I did was head for the cabin and take a cool shower. A few minutes later Buff III, my son, discovered a scorpion in the shower stall. No doubt he was there when I took my shower. The Lord must have been protecting me in a big way! For had I been stung, my prospective hike out of the Canyon would have been over. I probably would have been helicoptered out. In Arizona, scorpions can be found in outlandish places, including the shower stalls of backcountry cabins.
And speaking of helicopters, a female hiker had to be flown out. The helicopter landed within a hundred feet of our cabin. She had failed to maintain a balance between food and water while descending the Canyon, thus depleting her body’s electrolytes. She drank adequate water but failed to eat enough food, one of the medical Park Rangers told us.
Booze, Heat, And Hiking Won’t Cut It!
Buff III, Bruce, Jason Buff and I were seated at a picnic table, just outside our cabin, playing a game of Hearts. A male hiker collapsed ten feet from us. We ran over to assist him. His pulse was rapid, his flesh as white as snow, and his eyes were rolled back. We carried him into the cabin and placed him upon his bunk. Buff III notified a Park Ranger. Two medical Rangers showed up, checked him over, started an IV, and he was up and around within two hours.
The problem? He and his buddies had carried a case of beer into the Canyon, drinking along the way, an almost fatal mistake. He smelled like a booze factory when we carried him into the cabin. Alcohol and insufficient water dehydrated him. This foolish “strategy” is not an isolated case among those who hike the Canyon. You would be amazed at the lack of foresight and bizarre decisions of some would-be Canyon hikers. By the way, the cost of flying someone out of the Grand Canyon starts at $2,500.00—as of the year 2000. The cost has probably increased since 2000.
Water On The North Kaibab Trail
There are three water stops on the North Kaibab Trail. If you’re hiking out of the Canyon from Phantom Ranch, the first water stop is at Cottonwood Campground, 7 miles up. The second water stop is at Roaring Springs Pumping Station, 9 miles up. And the third water stop is at Coconino Overlook, a little more than 12 miles up. If you’re descending the North Kaibab Trail, the trailhead is located on the North Rim, about 2 miles north of Grand Canyon Lodge, and is within a few hundred feet of the Ken Patrick trailhead. They share the same parking lot.
Mule Trains On The North Kaibab Trail
A number of mule trains carrying human passengers passed us on our way out. To ride a mule on parts of this trail is an experience I don’t relish. Some of the Canyon’s trails are safe for riding a mule, but parts of this trail are not. Some of the passes are narrow, and the trail’s outer fringes are straight down for hundreds of feet. I think I’ll stick to hiking. As a youngster in the mountains of Eastern Kentucky, a mule fell through the bridge with me. I wasn’t injured, but I’m not inviting another fall by riding one on the North Kaibab Trail.
The Female Cowboy And Mule Guide!
We came upon a mule train that was taking a break. I stopped about 12 feet from the rear mule. The female mule guide, with cowboy hat and spurs, called out, “Sir, would you please move away from the rear end of that mule?” I didn’t like the tone of her voice, but I motioned I would. She said something else but I didn’t catch it. If she had sounded off any more, I intended to tell her in a factual but kindly manner, “Maam, if you can be quiet for a few moments, I’d like to say something. I was born and reared on a Kentucky mule, and I could probably tell you a few things about them. I’m not close enough to be kicked by the mule in front of me, so please lay off.”
I think she wanted to demonstrate her authority, for long before this incident she had been verbalizing rather loudly to her mule passengers. When authority by-passes the heart and lands on the brain, trouble lies just over the horizon.
Steep And Heartbreaking
If you’re coming out of the Canyon on the North Kaibab Trail from Phantom Ranch, the last 5 miles are steep and heartbreaking. But the scenery is beautiful. The North Rim, in my opinion, provides a lovelier view of the Canyon than the South Rim. The first 9 miles of the North Kaibab Trail from Phantom Ranch are relatively untroubling. Once you leave Roaring Springs Pumping Station, “you're on your own.” Those final 5 miles are a killer. When my two sons, a grandson, and I were about 2 miles from the top, our legs were as heavy as a bed of rocks. In spite of frequent breaks, our bodies cried out for more rest. Our spirits urged us to press onward. We did. We were never so happy to see the Canyon’s rim and part of the family waiting for us! We were almost delirious from physical and mental fatigue.
The Park’s Rangers recommend that hikers tent out at Cottonwood Springs, 7 miles up, before ascending the final 7 miles. To do the entire 14 miles at one setting was a challenge for us. We accepted it. But it will probably be a long time before we tackle that feat again—if ever.
Provisions When Hiking The Trails
Food is essential. The body functions on fuel, very much like an automobile. Food and water provide the fuel. Fuel translates into energy. If you run low on food and water, you’ll run low on fuel—therefore, little or no energy. The result?
Suffering. Three of my favorite food items in the Canyon are raisins, crackers, and sardines. Raisins provide quick energy, crackers help to replace the salt the body loses during perspiration, and sardines supply the extra “push” because of their high potassium and protein content—if you don’t mind halitosis. I tell those hiking with me that halitosis is better than no breath at all! Well, yes, I use breath mints to compensate. Otherwise, my hiking companions would abandon me.
Eating And Scheduling Your Hike Are Essential
If you’re coming out of the Canyon, you should eat something every 45 minutes to an hour. I usually take a food and water break every hour on the hour. Start your hike either into or out of the Canyon as early as possible. The break of day is fine. Do
not plan your hike during the heat of the day. That would be a blunder you would not soon forget.
In September, 1999, as mentioned above, I exited the South Kaibab Trail at 10:30 a.m. Three young women from Texas were just beginning to enter the Canyon. I don’t know what they were thinking, but I’m sure of one thing: They suffered that day before reaching Phantom Ranch. Not only is there no shade or water on the South Kaibab Trail, but they were starting their hike during the heat of the day. There’s little excuse for it.
Physically Preparing For The Canyon
If you smoke or are appreciably overweight, forget about hiking the Canyon. Your chances of making it are slim. Smoking diminishes your lung power, and those fatty pounds will slow you down to a drag. (If you’re interested in losing those extra pounds, connect to the link on
“Better Health” following the photos of the Grand Canyon.) Here are some pointers that will help you prepare for the Canyon:
1) If you’re not a runner, take brisk walks at least 30-45 minutes a day, six months prior to your hike. Try to find elevated places to do your walking, such as mounds or hills. A mountain trail would be ideal. If no mounds or hills are available, walk briskly up and down your staircase at least 10 times, twice a day, preferably with a loaded backpack. You’ll need all of the cardiopulmonary exercise you can get. For without strengthening the heart and lungs, your physical struggle will become quite conspicuous on the Canyon’s trails.
2) Eat a sensible diet—fruits and vegetables and low-fat meats. Delete alcohol and caffeine from your daily consumption. Drink plenty of water and fruit juices. Start doing push-ups, as they strengthen your heart and lungs.
3) Buy a good pair of hiking shoes, ankle-high. There are three important factors to consider when choosing hiking, running, or walking shoes. Ask yourself three questions:
- Are they lightweight?
- Are they flexible?
- Are they well cushioned?
Since you will need to carry as light a load as possible into the Canyon (every less ounce counts), heavy hiking shoes will simply slow you down and tire you out. To avert potential discomfort, trim your toenails before descending the Canyon.
4) I strongly recommend that you not drive long distance to reach the Grand Canyon, or to reach any other canyon, and attempt to hike one of the trails the same day. I made that mistake in the Spring of 2000 when I drove 311 miles to reach the Hualapai Trailhead on the Havasupai Indian Reservation, located on the west end of the Grand Canyon. I left home at 3 a.m. and arrived at the trailhead at 8 a.m. I was on an 8-mile trail that leads into Supai Indian Village by 8:15 a.m.
Driving long distance before a hike can be more exhausting than hiking the trail. By the time I reached the Village, I was spent. I won’t be doing that again! After a good night’s sleep and recuperation, I was ready and anxious to hit the trail again. I left the Reservation at 4:45 a.m. and reached the rim at 8:15 a.m. I was hardly “bushed” at all when I reached the top. Rest and sleep will do wonders prior to hiking a hard, long trail. You can bet your life on it!
5) Wear two pairs of socks when hiking the Grand Canyon—or any canyon. The extra pair will guard against “hot spots” and blisters. Band-Aids are a must. If you feel you're developing a “hot spot” on one of your toes or feet, get a Band-Aid on it immediately. If you wait until it blisters and breaks, your hike is over. If the “hot spot” or blister develops between the toes, wedge a piece of cotton between them. The cotton will prevent the “hot spot” from developing into a blister, and it will stop the blister from breaking. Wear a hat to ward off face-burn.
6) Inside the Canyon, don’t push yourself too hard. Maintain a slow, steady pace. If you push yourself beyond good sense, you’ll run out of energy long before you reach the top. Your muscles will ache. Then you’ll ask yourself over and over, “Why? Why? Why?” So good luck and God bless. You’ll need both!
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