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According to Prof. Donato the ancient perfumer's art consisted
of three procedures: "enfleurage", soaking, and pressing.
"Enfleurage was used. . . to make ointments,
which were obtained by spreading perfumed petals over a layer
of animal fat. The petals were continually replaced until complete
saturation. . . was achieved. Perfumed oil could also be extracted
by soaking the aromatic in hot oils and filtering what remained."
". . . we collected the various ingredients involved in
the manufacture of the perfumes: petals, rhizomes, and caulicles
(Fig. 1) . . . then carefully mixed (the ingredients) with non-acidic
vegetable oil (onphacium) and allowed to soak for a long time
at medium temperature.
We should like to make particular mention of the
'onphacium' and how it was possible to obtain it, since it was
basic to all the extractions. It is the oil, . . . produced from
unripe olives, more precisely olives harvested in August (Fig.
3)." - p.15
" . . . the olives. . . were allowed to soak for at least
twenty-four hours (in the lab). . . .(the) first pressed batch.
(of olives). . .will be ground. Fig. 6 shows the press we have
and the paste obtained by grinding. Fig. 7 shows the 'onphacium.'
The product we obtained in the laboratory is excellent. It is
slightly greasy oil, which is very dark due to the abundance
of mucilage, and is practically odorless and tasteless, apart
from a faint herb-like odor. It had unexpected features, especially
in its lack of fats. It had so little fat that when it is spread
over the skin, rubbing it a little, it is easily absorbed. The
next step was filtering, followed by blending."
Professor Donato also makes a number of observations concerning
ancient perfumery. For one he identifies that,
"during the classical period sweeter compounds
that remained fresh and refined were preferred. In addition,
the perfumed substances could be ingested since the extractive
element was vegetable oil. In ancient times they were added to
wine and drunk."
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As a result of Professor Donato's research
and work the following fragrances were created.
Rhodinum consisting
of 'onphacium', rose blossom, crocus, cinnabar, calamus, honey,
rush, sublimated salt, alkamet, and wine.
Myrtum Laurum consisting of oil of Persia, i.e., marjoram,
lily, fenugreek, myrrh, cassia, nard, rush and cinnamon, myrtle,
and laurel.
Metopium consisting of bitter almonds, 'onphacium', cardamon,
rush, calamus, honey, myrrh, balsam, "calbono crescina,"
and turpentine resin.
Regale Unguentum consisting of myrobalan, costus, ammonal,
cinnamon, comacus, cardamon, lavender, myrrh, trifolium, cinnamon
cassia, styrax, labdanum, balsam, calamus, rush, oenanthe, pimpinellifolia,
laurel, casia, sericato, cyperus, rosewood, panace, saffron,
henna, marjoram, lotus, honey, and wine.
Cyprinum consisting of cyperus, 'onphacium', cardamon,
clamus, rose wood, and wormwood.
Telinum consisting of fresh oil, cyperus, calamus, melilotus,
fenugreek, honey, maro, and marjoram.
Susinum, the most delicate of all, consisting of lily,
balsam, honey, cinnamon, saffron, and myrrh.  
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