(Click on any of
the
pictures to see a larger version.)
The iconic Burj Al Arab
bills itself as the
only "seven-star" hotel in the world. That's probably a bit of
hyperbole on the hotel's part; most hotel rating systems only go as
high as five stars. However, there's no denying that the hotel is one
of the most luxurious in the world. Every room has its own butler! If I
ever have an extra $2,000 to
blow, I might spend the night there just to see what it's like.

The high-rises of the Dubai World Trade Center create a "canyon" along Sheikh Zayed Road, which is Dubai's main thoroughfare.

High-rises line the edge of
the Dubai Creek. The creek is a lengthy tidal inlet that divides
the old cities of Diera and Bur Dubai; it served as Dubai's main
harbor for much of the city's history and still handles a lot of
maritime traffic. I took this picture from one of the Abras, or water taxis, that ferry people across the creek.

Another view from Sheikh
Zayed Road. In the distance are dozens of high-rises under construction
in and around Dubai Marina.This represents merely a fraction of the
construction currently taking place in Dubai.

Another view of a cluster of
high-rises under construction at Dubai Marina. Once completed, these
towers will house luxury condominiums and hotels.

The Burj Dubai under construction. This will reportedly be the tallest building in the world when it is completed in 2008.

Not everything in Dubai is
new. This is a view of the city's historic Diera district from the
Dubai Creek. Note the jumble of old buildings, the dhows along the
waterfront, and the towering minaret. The Diera district contains many
souks, or traditional Arab markets, including the famous Gold Souk.

This is a view of the Gold
Souk. Jewelry stores line either side of the street, which is covered
by a canopy. Dubai is known for its bustling gold trade.
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My Trip to Dubai
Dubai
is one of the seven city-states that comprise the United Arab Emirates.
It is located on the northern coast of the Arabian Peninsula, fronting
the Persian Gulf.
My January 2006 trip to Dubai
was unexpected in that I never really imagined myself ever traveling to
the Middle East until I got a call from one of my company's regional
administrators about a week before Christmas, asking me if I'd travel
to Dubai in January to assist with some bus transit planning efforts. I
agreed and, in early January, off I went to the sands of Arabia.
Although, the sand there is quickly being replaced with skyscrapers, highways, shopping malls and golf courses. As a recent article in The Guardian
reports,
Dubai is the fastest-growing city in the world. The amount
of development currently underway there is, in fact, nothing short of
mind-boggling. Literally hundreds of high-rise buildings are currently
under
construction, including the Burj Dubai, which will be the tallest
building in the world once it is completed. It is said that sixteen
percent of the world's supply of high-rise construction cranes is
currently located in Dubai. Such a claim is hard to verify, but the
Dubai skyline is nevertheless dotted with cranes. Office buildings as
well as residential towers are being built at a feverish pace, with
much of the construction occurring in specific developments with names
like "Healthcare City," "Knowledge Village" or "Festival City." Then
there's the stuff being built right off the coast: the three
man-made palm-shaped islands currently under
construction, or the artificial archipelago being made in the
form of the world. It all really has to be seen first-hand in order to be
believed.
Why the frenetic construction boom? Dubai's prime location in the
oil-wealthy Middle East, with America and Europe to the west and India,
China and the Pacific Rim to the east, as well as its lack of corporate
taxes, is
expected to attract scores of businesses over the coming years, while
its sunny climate is expected to attract tens of thousands of wealthy
families from all parts of the world
looking for vacation condos. Dubai real estate is obviously a hot
commodity and housing prices are already so high that a sizable chunk
of the city's workforce resides in Sharjah, the neighboring emirate to
the north, where housing costs are somewhat cheaper. Nevertheless,
there is something vaguely unsettling about the surreal scale of
construction currently underway in Dubai. Is this incredible frenzy of
construction really justified? Can all this office, residential, hotel
and retail space now under construction really be absorbed?
It’s a bit unfortunate that I didn’t get to see as much of
Dubai as I would have liked; my company's office over there is extremely busy
and I worked six days a week while I was there. I did, however, do most
of the “must dos” in Dubai, such as take an Abra (water
taxi) ride along the Dubai Creek, visit the glimmering Gold Souk in
Dubai’s old city of Diera, and see the massive Ski Dubai indoor
ski slope at the gleaming new Mall of the Emirates. I didn’t get to ski, though.
Maybe next time.
Generally speaking, Dubai is a safe, clean and prosperous city. Most
people speak English and virtually all the signs are bilingual (Arabic
and English) so getting around is not a problem. The traffic, however,
is a different story. It made me long for Houston freeways during rush
hour. No wonder they needed me to help them tinker with their public
transportation system! Dubai is building a two-line metro system, set to
open early next decade.
Dubai is also very cosmopolitan. About eighty percent of Dubai's
population are expatriates from all over the globe; this creates a
fascinating mix of peoples, cultures and cuisines. Indian, Thai,
Pakistani, Filipino, Chinese and European restaurants are everywhere,
as are stables of American culture such as Starbucks, Chili's, Hard
Rock Cafe, McDonalds or Burger King. I especially developed a taste for
Arabian food while I was there; in fact, I think I ate more hummous and
tabbouli during my two weeks in Dubai than I've eaten in my entire life!
The United Arab Emirates is officially Islamic. However, it is more liberal than other Gulf
countries such as Saudi Arabia. Other religions are freely allowed to
practice and worship there. There are no religious police running
around telling you what you can or can't wear. Women can drive. Alcohol
is readily available at hotels (the UAE is one of two Gulf countries
that allow alcohol consumption; Bahrain is the other). Bikinis are the
rule along Dubai beaches. Western movies are shown in theaters along
with the latest Bollywood productions; American programming such as
CNN and ESPN is readily available. However,
the local press is careful to avoid any criticism of the government,
and the state-owned telecommunications monopoly, Etisalat, actively
censors the internet and blocks a
lot of sites as being "inconsistent with the religious, cultural,
political, and moral values of the
United Arab Emirates." The UAE is an absolute monarchy; there is no
democracy and political freedoms are severely limited.
But maybe the strict control is what makes Dubai the safe, prosperous hyper-boomtown that it is today. The aforementioned Guardian
article suggests that this is the "trade-off on which Dubai is relying.
A booming market, with a consciously courteous social culture and a
tight police system ... deliver a better wage than would be available
at home - all this in return for surrendering anything resembling a
political right."
The only real gripe I have about Dubai is the airport. It is a new
facility that serves as the hub for rapidly-growing Emirates Airlines
as well as several other airlines (including KLM, which I flew from
Houston to Dubai via Amsterdam). However, the airport has one design
flaw: after leaving the check-in counters at the front of the airport,
one walks to passport control where immigration officers “stamp
you out” of the Emirates. However, the 20 or so passport control
lanes quickly crowd down into only six security screening lanes, and
when the airport is busy (as it was when I was leaving), the going is
very, very slow. At one point, in fact, I really thought I was going to
miss my flight. My advice for those traveling to Dubai is to arrive a
good three hours before your flight leaves and, if you encounter this
bottleneck during a particularly crowded time, try to move towards one
of the middle security lanes rather than the outside ones because they
seem to move more quickly. Hopefully the Dubai airport will improve
this situation as the airport continues to expand.
All in all, it was an interesting experience and I would definitely
return to Dubai. If you’ve ever wanted to visit the Middle East,
this is the place to start.
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