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August 01, 2002

Jetty Island: A man-made creation is now a natural oasis

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PHOTO
Karee Jewett, 14, left, and Haley Patterson, 13, are having a hoot stumbling across the tidal plain between Everett and Jetty Island.
(SCOTT EKLUND / SEATTLE POST-INTELLIGENCER)
JETTY ISLAND -- A toddler in a rainbow bathing suit, toting a plastic pail almost as big as she is, searches for the perfect spot, sits, and begins to dig in the fine sand.

Nearby, two boys run screeching along an expanse of squishy tideland into the warm, waiting water, their feet sinking delightfully with each step. A grandmother picks up a driftwood walking stick and begins to meander down a beach-grass-lined trail.

These summer scenes could be almost anywhere but here. After all, with our cold, rocky beaches on Puget Sound, no parents in their right mind would let the kids go out without parkas and boots and rain gear.

Unless, of course, they happen to be at Jetty Island, a 10-minute ferry ride away from Everett's 10th Street Boat Launch and Marine Park. The boat runs Wednesdays through Sundays, July 4 through Labor Day.

"This is like Disneyland right at your doorstep," says 68-year-old Margaret, who normally brings her grandchildren here to play. "They really enjoy the water, they go out flopping around in it and just enjoy being free for the day."

On this particular day, Margaret, who asked that her last name not be used, has come alone to reclaim some film she'd accidentally left behind on her last trip, and decides to spend the rest of the morning walking the paths and contemplating a major life decision.

"I like the water and the breeze off the water, it's very quiet out here," she says.

As it should be. Jetty Island has no phones. No cars. No shops. Not even a soda machine. You can buy a T-shirt, but that's about it. And it's just as well, really. The 2-mile-long, 1/2-mile-wide (only 500 feet wide at high tide) getaway is a man-made island that serves as a sanctuary for 45 species of birds and hundreds of people per day.

PHOTO
Naturalist Nate Fuchs, right, points out plants and wildlife to visitors during a guided nature walk on Jetty Island.
(SCOTT EKLUND / SEATTLE POST-INTELLIGENCER)

Wildlife includes gulls and killdeer that find refuge in the beach grass, ospreys who nest atop pilings, and juvenile salmon that come to the lagoon on the north side for shelter, says Kraig Hansen, the island's chief naturalist. Predators are few, with an occasional coyote that walks over during low tide.

Bird populations thrive here. The elderberry, scotch broom, blackberry and dune rye are hearty enough to take root in the sandy soil. Jetty Island is protected by a long list of city ordinances such as no hunting, no pets, campfires in designated areas only and a pack-in/pack-out policy.

Margaret says the visits give her grandkids "a taste of the real life, not what they're fed on TV."

It's an organic kind of fun, especially because it's all free, even the ferry ride over. And while Jetty Island may be one of the region's best-kept secrets, you wouldn't know it. Between 550 to 1,000 people per day take advantage of this playground, depending on the weather.

On this day, an extended family with about a dozen kids of all sizes has pitched a tent and colorful umbrellas right near a fire pit. They fly kites, set up a seemingly endless picnic and escort the smallest tribe members to the water's edge.

Seven-year-old Eric Frisk and 9-year-old Nicholas Scheltinga from Lake Stevens have come with Eric's mother, Peggy. Eric reckons he's been here 1,000 times, then rethinks that figure and lowers it to 100. Within 10 minutes of getting off the boat and staking out a spot for their blanket, the boys are soaking wet, covered with sand and showing off a crab carcass they found.

"We're here for the swimming, there aren't many sandy beaches around here," Nicholas says. "It's just fun."

And fun comes in a more structured way, too. "People want to hit the beach and play, but they come away with something more," Hansen says. It's easy, with educational opportunities at every turn.

The Discovery Hut contains pictures and samples of the island's flora and fauna, plus an overview of the island's natural history. Puppet shows, campfire presentations with music and special guests, sandcastle contests and even a murder mystery whodunit all find space on the events calendar. And there are at least two nature hikes every day.

If you can tear yourself away from basking and playing to embark on one of the 40-minute treks, you'll learn about the zillions of secrets the island harbors:

PHOTO
After constructing a temporary driftwood beach house, Mishayla Panchot and Mike Jefferson of nearby Marysville enjoy a leisurely game of checkers.
(SCOTT EKLUND / SEATTLE POST-INTELLIGENCER)

  • That barnacle cement on the rocks is way stronger than anything 3M can come up with, and scientists are trying to figure out how to duplicate it.

  • Digger bees have no hive or queen, and dig decoy holes in the sand to disguise their true egg deposits, which they cover up with old grass or something that makes them appear abandoned.

  • The round, flat areas in the salt marsh aren't mysterious crop circles but 15-foot-diameter patches where panne grass grows and naturally bends down on itself.

  • Cedar waxwings feast on fermented elderberries and get drunk.

    Then, of course, there are all the free eats on the nature hike, which come in particularly handy if you've forgotten your picnic: beach peas that are a little raw and bitter and would taste better perhaps roasted with a little olive oil and sea salt, served as a salad garnish; gumweed, the foul-tasting sticky flower given to cure sore throats in the old days (think turpentine meets plain oatmeal); and pickleweed, the salty, springy grass that's found in salt marshes such as this.

    Who knew that a pile of junk could breed all this?

    Jetty Island's beginnings a hundred years ago were profit-based. In order to build business on the Everett waterfront, harbor access was needed for ships and boats. However, in those days vessels were made of wood and prone to damage from the shipworm, a small-shell clam that thrives in saltwater and bores holes in wooden hulls.

    The only way to keep watercraft from such damage was to create a freshwater harbor with water from the Snohomish River. To do that, a portion of Puget Sound was dredged and the debris from that eventually became a jetty that aided in keeping the fresh water from the river in and the salt water from the Sound out.

    The debris piled up -- logs, rocks, old boats, pilings and sand. Sometimes those ancient materials surface. On the southwest beach, for example, a wood skeleton of something has revealed itself, but rangers aren't quite sure what it is.

    "Every year, new stuff likes to pop up. You never know what," says interpretive naturalist Nate Fuchs.

    In the late 1920s, investors -- including John D. Rockefeller -- pulled out of the development of Everett and its waterfront for unclear reasons, but most likely after being discouraged by the pollutants from sawmills and pulp mills that spewed from smokestacks, Hansen said. In addition, shipwrights were building boats with sturdier hulls, making the goal of a freshwater harbor moot.

    PHOTO
    Olivier Goudard of Mill Creek dodges the kite string of family friend Elisabeth Coutoure of Mukilteo as her sister Maryanne scours the beach for interesting tidbits.
    (SCOTT EKLUND / SEATTLE POST-INTELLIGENCER)

    Though the island continued to be a dumping ground for construction projects, birds found it a relatively peaceful home and began to lay claim to the habitat. By the 1950s, the Kiwanis Club set up a changing room and bathhouse for a swimming retreat. And 17 years ago, the Everett Parks and Recreation Department began organizing trips and educational programs to Jetty Island.

    For Sherry Mickelsen of Everett, the island has given her family something beyond entertainment and education. She's been coming here for the past 14 years. Her initial enthusiasm for the beach -- after a lifetime in the Midwest -- earned her the nickname Jetty Queen. Her son, 10-year-old Anthony, is naturally the Jetty Prince and was led to believe that the island was his.

    "As he gets older, he's realizing that's not really true," she says. Still, he has celebrated every birthday here. "He will always remember it as uninterrupted time -- there are no phones ringing, no TV. Everything's about being with family and making your own fun. ... I'm sure just feeling like he's the Jetty Prince has done wonders for him," she says.

    "It's a real gift, I think."

    If you go...

  • Information: For a full schedule of Jetty Island boat departures and recreational activities, please see www.everettwa.org/parks/recreation/jetty/jettyinfo.htm or call 425-257-8304.

  • Ferry schedule: From July 5 to Sept. 1, the free Jetty Island ferry runs about every half-hour from 10 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. Wednesday through Saturday, and 11 a.m.-5:30 p.m. Sundays. The trip takes five to 10 minutes.

    PHOTO
     

  • Getting there: To get to the ferry, from the north, take Exit 194 from Interstate 5 and turn right onto Everett Avenue. Continue all the way to the waterfront and turn right onto West Marine View Drive. Continue north approximately 17 blocks. The entrance to the park is on the left. From the south, take Exit 193 from I-5 and turn left onto Pacific Avenue. Continue west on Pacific Avenue to West Marine View Drive and turn right. Proceed approximately 21 blocks north. The entrance to the park is on the left.

  • Services: There are no services on the island, but there is a restroom by the dock and water at the ranger station. Visitors are advised to bring food, beverages and cooking supplies, and must pack out anything they bring in -- including trash. There are no lifeguards on duty, and rangers ask that you not bring pets, alcohol or glass containers. Children under age 12 must be accompanied by an adult. There is no overnight camping allowed.

  • Programs: There are special programs available for large groups (reservations recommended at least one week in advance). Kids 6-12 can join the Jetty Island Nature Camp, a three-day educational and recreational program from 9:45 a.m.-4:45 p.m. Wednesdays through Fridays. The cost is $60 per child; for reservations, call 425-257-8300 or print out the reservation form on the Web site.

    Vanessa McGrady is a Seattle-based free-lancer who can be reached at vmcgrady@mindspring.net.

    Copyright © 2002 by Seattle Post-Intelligencer. All rights reserved.


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