Revised 20-20B web page
5 June 2005

  
URL   http://www.mindspring.com/~waltmur/Self-Steering/

Please note that this site is being reactivated after about a year and
 there are many missing and revised files. I am trying to retain most of
the old 20-20 files but I need to cut much of the old pages to be able to
fit my allowed web space on my ISP server.  The new version is 20-20B

Design considerations-

 -----Elements to consider in designing a wind vane
controlled self-steering system-------

                                       
                                       Click to enlarge

                This is a preliminary cut at things to consider in planning
                 a self-steering system based on my experiences. I will
                 try to expand the comments and would like feed back on
                 what information to add. 
 

          The design of a self-steering system for a sailboat is not a very
difficult task but designing one that has enough power and is also
sensitive enough for light air requires that a number of not so
obvious factors be considered.
The only thing these devices can reference  is the wind direction.
Since the wind is seldom very constant it must be expected that
the course the boat will sail will be relative to the wind's direction.
A system that will steer closely to the wind's direction will require
a signal from the wind vane to direct the boats rudder. The error
of the change in the wind direction relative to the boat is sensed
or " Measured" by the vane. This error can come from a shift in the wind or from a yawing of the boat that shifts the relative wind on the vane. This apparent wind is the resultant of the boat's speed
and the yaw and rolling combined with the true wind.
        Almost all of the commercial systems use what is referred to as
servo pendulum types. This type has a geometrical arrangement
that has some inherent advantages that justify it's increased
construction complexities. The most desirable feature is the strong yaw damping the oar provides. The natural desire for a simple design such as tabs on the primary rudder and even direct connection to the boat's rudder often leads to poor performance devices. 
This is especially so when used on modern fin keel boats with well balanced rudders.

   These comments are offered as my personal views and you may
find several contrary ones that have been published. I have no
arguments with them but just offer these as my own.

 I will limit my discussion to the pendulum type with the horizontal vane. The horizontal vane is a bit of a misnomer since most gears tilt the vane shaft up into the incoming wind for stability reasons.
This tilting of the shaft is used to build in a self stabilizing feature
in a rather subtle way. As the vane rotates the wind will strike the
blade at smaller and smaller angle and produce less load.
This action helps smooth out the steering and is referred to as
proportional control. Without this feature a powerful vane could
slam over to the stops and the boat would feel a hard over
rudder trying to return to course. Over steer and over correction
of the course would be almost certain. 

     The basic elements of a typical system consist of
the wind driven vane and the water powered
oar. The large increase in control power that the
oar provides compared to the the small forces
the wind vane inputs is called a servo system.
This increase or " Gain " can easily be more than 
one hundred to one. The example in the "Technical"
page shows a  loading of 81 pounds on the oar with
0.21 Pounds from the wind vane. Hence 81/0.21 
 equals  386.

The wind vane-

        The wind vane is some times called the "wind paddle" and as
such is an appropriate label. The vane is mounted on a shaft to
allow it to swing when the wind strikes at an angle and this provides a greater rotation than if it were a vertical axis vane and
also produces much more torque about the shaft.  This is the torque that sends a signal to the other parts of the system about the error and which way to turn the boat to correct it.
The torque of the vane is transmitted to the oar via a linkage of
pushrods or cables. The most important design point here is the
need to keep friction at a minimum. As I show on the "Technical"
page these wind generated loads are small. Just making the vane
larger to get more torque can result in more friction and quickly
negate the gain in vane output that finally gets to the oar's shaft.

The wind vane sizing is based on aeronautical data but it is also
influenced by the space available on the boat. There are several
options but a simple mast type works fine and can be braced off
the stern rail or back stay if the support becomes too flexible.
The airfoil data is closely related to model aircraft and at the small
scale and wind speeds this is a good source of information.  
A simple thin flat plate will give almost as good a lift as cambered foils at the low angles of attack required.
The flow at these speeds will be mostly lamina anyway. Some published data shows a large improvement if tabs are used on the trailing edges. My very preliminary wind tunnel tests do show that an advantage is found at angles of attack greater than five degrees and therefore should be considered. The tabs of about 20 % chord and set at 45 degrees in my tunnel tests showed complete separation and  turbulence on the back side of the foil at about 5 degrees. This turbulence was large scale. Vortex size of 10 to 20 % of the chord. The flow leaving the trailing edge of the face side tab was also turning into the cavity of the tab mounting and was not at all smooth.
I feel the initial increase in vane torque with the tabs is due to the 
increase in camber over a flat plate and the extra drag doesn't
harm the torque so the net result is indeed a positive increase
in vane torque. At high angles of attack the torque still continues
to increase mostly due to the drag force causing a moment about the vane pivot shaft.

        Mechanically the vane needs to be rugged. It will get
whipped about in a strong wind and is also subject to being
struck around docks. I think light weight plywood is a good
compromise and it should be attached so it can be readily
replaced with spares.

        It is important to counter balance the vane so that the
inertial loads of yawing or pitching from the boat don't introduce
false signals to the system. Running in light air with little force
on the vane from the wind and a passing motorboat wake
can cause an unbalanced vane to send the boat on wild swings.
Some over counter weighting of the vane may help stabilize the
action on other courses so a provision to adjust this will help.  

     Sizing the vane is always a question. It must be large enough
to drive the oar in heavy going and in light air. Experience has shown that vanes with areas about four square feet and aspect
ratios near four are quite satisfactory. Using good bearings and
holding the weight down, much smaller vanes can do the job. This is a good starting size in a design. Again, the example I show is only 1.25 square feet and works fine with the 20-20 model.

Oar and carrier-

        The oar is the element that powers the system. It's
action is often explained by holding a paddle edgewise
in the water flowing past the boat and then twisting the
handle to let the water strike the side of the paddle while
trying to hold it in place. This resulting load transmitted to the tiller is what controls the boat.
      The force acting on the side of the oar is assumed to be
centered about half way down the submerged blade and
acting around the carrier's horizontal shaft axis. It is also
desirable to have it acting close to the vertical hinge line of the oar. This is normally expected to be at about 25% back
from the leading edge of a foil. However the underwater part of oar is in more complicated flow than most simple foil explanations show. 
The bottom tip and the water/air interface influence the loading. 
On most boats the wake will also be rather turbulent where the oar is operating.
     The center of gravity of the oar and it's shaft and the
flotation of the blade should also act near the hinge line.
A small amount of trailing is desirable. There will be a small
vibration about the oar's hinge line called "Dither " by
servo engineers. This is likely caused by the turbulent flow
at the water / air surface. It is helpful in that it will help
reduce the static friction the wind vane must overcome
to turn the oar.
While keeping the overall weight down is recommended
the weight of this assembly is not much of a problem since
even at flow speeds of one or two knots will provide enough
side load to overcome an over weight design.

Output Linkage-

      The water load on the oar will cause the carrier to rotate 
and move the output arm to supply the necessary line
tension to the boat's tiller. With the sails properly trimmed
this load will be the same as if the boat was being hand
steered. The torque of the oar load about the carrier shaft
will depend on the distance from the mid point of the submerged blade plus the distance from the water line to the carriers horizontal shaft. On most boats this will be on the order of four feet. An output arm of one fourth that will therefore give a line load capability of four times the oar
load. This will far exceed most helmsman's strength.
For this reason it is important to be able to disengage the
self-steering very quickly.

    Mechanically the oar needs to be light and stiff.
Like much machine design ,the choices of materials
will be the designer's personal preferences and many
successful designs have used everything from stainless
steel plate to wood . The size of the underwater part
will be about two feet long and five to six inches wide.
The blade foil profile should be well faired and have
a smooth leading edge and sharper trailing edge.
A NACA  0010 shape is often recommended for a good
thickness and low drag profile shape. 

Vane to rudder linkage ratios-

         The ratios of the movements of the various elements
interact to cause the error of off course to the wind to
return the boat to the wind. A vane rotation to stops of about 
45 degrees is enough. This vane rotation will be transferred
to the oar and the amount of oar rotation about it's vertical
axis will depend upon the geometry of the linkage.
A one to one ratio will  likely be more than needed and will
contribute to over steer. This ratio needs to be adjusted to
the ratio of the carrier swing to the boat's rudder turning.
The oar carrier will swing to one side and as it does negative
feed back will cause the oar angle of attack to lessen.
This is negative feed back and a test of this important condition is
easy to make. For an existing system installed on a boat at
dockside hold the vane centered and check that the oar and
the boat's tiller are inline with the boat's centerline. While holding 
the vane centered move the boat's tiller and notice the rotation
of the oar. If the oar rotates in the same direction as the boat's
tiller then the feed back is positive and  WRONG .  If it is right
 the output from the oar will be decreasing and the rudder load
increasing until they  balance out. The rudder angle will be at it's
maximum for the oar's power and the boat will be returning to it's
course setting. If the wind remains steady the relative wind angle
will decrease on the vane and the smooth return to course will follow. High wind speeds and corresponding higher boat speeds
will produce more load available to turn the rudder but if the
rudder is badly balanced and has excess friction and line stretch
the  result will be  less rudder angle and hence reduced response.

               In summary-- the vane/oar ratio of 1 to 0.25--.5 and the
carrier swing/rudder of about 1.0 to 0.8 seems about the proper
values to start the design with. 
These ratios define the static "Gain" . The final dynamic gain will
likely be different due to inertial forces and fluid damping.
This subject begins to get complex when all these factors are
included in the design. As an example, I have not been able to find
any data on the yaw damping of the turning rate for small boats.
       As always, experiment with your boat.
You may find it requires different values for best performance.
This is one reason I advocate building a cheap mock up version
as a first model. It may seem a waste to use that approach but
I find using 'experimental design ' to be easier to get a balance 
of all the variables needed to build a truly good self-steering device.  
  

Summary
                      The overall most important goal for a good design is
keeping the friction low in the wind/linkage and avoiding
mechanical complexities. The geometrical  relations have been
worked out by many builders and should be used as a starting
point followed by test sailing to fine tune these values for the boat.



  

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