And here we are sweating it out in our dance class. Yes, I really did try to do this stuff.
Besides a private demonstration by the ballet company and an evening of traditional son at the local casa de trova (a place for entertainment), we also got to catch an evening at the carnaval. There was everything from floats packed with beauty queens to drum corps to teenage boys in drag doing wild bicycle stunts. When someone says the Cubans really know how to have a good time, they're not kidding.
After a rigorous introduction in Camag¸ey to the rhythms of bembé (Yoruban) and gagá (Haitian), we set out of Santiago de Cuba, the island's second largest city. We had the unusual and splendid opportunity to take three members of the Camag¸ey company with us, which had the effect of turning the bus into a sort of rolling rumba. We had only one full day in Santiago de Cuba, which we spent touring cultural sites, exhibits, and seeing performances. As in Havana, there's much of a more touristic nature to do and see here...just another reason to come back!
In the mountains to the north of Santiago de Cuba is perhaps Cuba's most important pilgrimage destination, Cobre. Cobre is the site of the first copper mine in the Americas and the place where the first slaves were freed in Cuba. The basilica at Cobre houses a precious relic, the Virgen de la Caridad, which is said to have appeared miraculously in the sea and to have been rescued. People come from all over and bring offerings to her, many in the form of sunflower garlands, which we were able to buy from roadside vendors en route.
A view of the surrounding countryside from the basilica.
While in Cobre we paid a visit to a local spiritualist, known as Madlaile. Part mystic, part artist, he expresses his visions in altar installations and paintings, which he has rendered by a local painter. The spirit that possesses him in trance is that of a runaway slave. Here is Madlaile with some of the objects representing his pantheon. Suffice it to say, his idea of religion is all-inclusive. On the right is one of his creations, made from animal bones.
Another room in Madlaile's house.
In Santiago de Cuba we visited the Casa de la Religiones Popular, which has rooms dedicated to each major religion or sect. There they also have the thrones of the three orishas chosen by the congress of babalawos to represent the calendar year. Unfortunately, we were asked not to take pictures here. Down the street is the Casa de Caribe, where we attended a performance of Haitian music and dance by the group Kokoyé. The picture on the left is from the actual performance; the picture on the right shows how all performances end--with the audience joining in.
In the evening we strolled in the main square of Santiago de Cuba. Pictured here are the Hotel Casa Grande and the Cathedral, built in 1818.
Three of my buddies--Carolyn, Mary, and Patsyóenjoying rum drinks and cigars on the patio of the Hotel Casa Grande.
